What to Do on a Road Trip Around Grand Rapids

A cabin retreat might mean a longer drive, but the Grand Rapids area is worth the car time.

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My dad’s family repeats a joke that my late grandpa used to have on his answering machine. He would say, “You’ve reached the Halls' Summer Home, some are not." We haven’t had a home phone or an answering machine since I was eight—but somehow, this joke persists.

As Labor Day weekend approaches, many of us are feeling the pressure to make extravagant lake-oriented plans. We are dying to leave the "summer home, some are not" message on our OOO emails and post sunny lake photos without a care for likes or comments. The last hurrah before the long hibernation sets in and we wear nothing but wool socks until March. 

Thus, each year we begin the frenzied search for any friend, family member or distant, long-lost cousin four-times-removed who might have a cabin for the last long weekend of our all-too-brief summer. This year, don't we all feel a little extra frenzied? Dying to escape a little more than usual, bury our toes in the sand, and get gorgeously burnt before the days shorten? The Up North urge is uniquely Minnesotan—and is it strong as ever.

When I say I’m going Up North, most people assume it’s about a two-hour jaunt. They picture twenty-somethings slalom skiing behind speedboats with Little Big Town’s "Day Drinking" cranked. They picture a sandy beach and clean-cut grass, colorful inner-tubes with too many passengers whizzing by the end of the dock, whipped around by a group of graying Boomer dads. The dull drone of motorboats underlies the entire image. And then they ask where my cabin is.

“About an hour north of Grand Rapids,” I say. (So, 4 to 4-and-a-half hours from the Minneapolis-St. Paul area.)

Their eyes get wide and their grins soften. Usually the response is somewhere between awe and disbelief. They are astonished that anyone would willingly drive more than two hours for a weekend on the lake—or they are unaware that the state even continues that far north.

Geography for the city slickers out there: There is a place (around Elk River) where Highway 169 turns to four lanes with stop lights, and farther north it turns to two lanes (gasp!). It wraps around Lake Mille Lacs, which is about halfway to our destination.

Farther north still, there is a place where 169 becomes a city’s main street, where you can take a right to Target (where you might see my family unpacking and repacking our car to fit purchases of Opalhouse furniture) or take a left to the birthplace of Judy Garland herself. Toto, we're definitely not in Kansas. This is Grand Rapids, Minnesota.

The Judy Garland Museum, Target, Walmart and the antique store welcome you to this quaint small town. And what’s a classic small town without a candy shop? Make a hydration stop for coffee or local brews in downtown GR.

There’s a lake just south of Grand Rapids: Pokegama—you've maybe heard of it? With a Zorbaz as every large Up North lake must have, and a fantastic Zunset view, Pokegama Lake is worth a cruise if you’re towing your boat for the weekend. Kitty-corner from Zorbaz, The Pickled Loon Saloon is a Cheers kind of place (if you’re a local, everybody knows your name).

The North Country National Scenic Trail runs through Grand Rapids, where you can take a breather before jumping back on the trail, which isn't quite done yet, but will comprise 4,600 miles of interstate hiking paths running from North Dakota to New York.

At this point, your GPS is pretty much useless, so I’ll tell you where to go from there. Take a left in GR at NE Fourth Street, which turns into Highway 2, and follow that west through the smaller town of Deer River. An unchanging sign outside the Bait Shop reads: “Bait, Dry Ice, Jesus The Way"—advertising their wide range of merchandise. 

Keep following Highway 2. You’ll pass by the Gosh Dam Place, named after nearby Lake Winnibigoshish. Winnibigoshish (AKA Lake Winnie or Big Winnie, though I’ve never heard anyone call it that) is one of Minnesota’s largest lakes and is known for walleye, northern, some large and smallmouth bass, and an array of pan fish.

Are we there yet? Nope.

Destination: Up Highway 46 to Sand Lake on the Bowstring chain. You are far enough west that the mild current of the chain flows north (no, the toilets don't flush the opposite direction).

Fishing boats fill the Bowstring chain of lakes, which goes from Bowstring Lake to Sand Lake, Little Sand Lake, and Rice Lake. The chain is known for walleye, northern, bluegill, and crappie, plus some bass. The walleye slot (17 to 26 inches immediate release, 1 kept over 26 inches) presents a formidable challenge for catching something edible. 

I have never seen a skier, but the lake settles down to near-perfect conditions most summer evenings. June and July temperatures are reliably 10 degrees lower than the metro, and in August both the water and air warm to comfortable swimming, water-sports-ing, and relaxing temperatures, and nights cool off substantially. Bring a sweatshirt. 

The Chippewa National Forest, which hugs the back of most of the west side lake properties, means no neighbors except the waterside cabins—which are pretty sparse for having one of the clearest lakes in the state.

Sand Lake presents more than backyard squirrels. Bald eagles and a family of playful otters are permanent residents, pelicans summer on the uninhabited islands, quarter-sized frogs leap through the lakeside grass, and in the winter people claim to have seen a pack of timber wolves—I'm grateful to never have laid eyes on them.

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Fire at Cabin

Natalie Hall

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S'mores at Cabin

Natalie Hall

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S'mores

Natalie Hall

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S'more Prep

Natalie Hall

Many resorts call Sand Lake home, including Island View Resort on the northeast side of Sand Lake, Edgewater Resort on the east side, SandHaven Resort on the southeast end of Sand Lake in an area we call the boot (a calm channel off the main lake), and Sand Lake Lodge on the south shore. The nearby town of Marcell (north of Sand Lake) is home to the Timberwolf Inn, which has the authentic feel of a Northwoods hotel with an upscale restaurant and string lighted patio.

Sand Lake is near…well, nothing. The Lost Forty is about 20 miles from the lake, and the name should clue you into the lack of civilization in the area. The Lost Forty in the Chippewa National Forest is 144 acres of ancient pines saved from early logging because the area was mistakenly mapped as nearby Coddington Lake on an 1882 Public Land Survey–whoops! This wilderness, made up of trees that are over 200 years old with trunks too big for two tree huggers to wrap their arms around, gives a glimpse into the original Northwoods. Thank goodness for the inaccurate mapping person who saved a chunk of Minnesota history with this 144-acre transgression.

The Chippewa National Forest was the first national forest established east of the Mississippi River and is home to the Joyce Estate. The historic, 4,500-acre resort had 40 buildings, its own golf course and airplane hangar, and remained in use by the Joyce family from the early 1900s until 1972. Railroads made Grand Rapids a convenient resort destination for prohibition-era Minneapolis and Chicago residents.

As we pack our bikinis, flip flops, and floating unicorns to kiss the end of summer goodbye, I wonder if cabin pressure is overrated. Would we be better off laying in the backyard on the red and white lawn chairs our parents bought in the ‘80s? We would still get tan—we could still sip Grain Belt Blu and wear floppy sun hats with “beach please” scrawled across the brim.

But then, I get out of the car in the pitch-black darkness and see the perforation of the brightest stars seemingly close enough to touch. I hear the loons yodeling over their impending departure for Florida. The moon reflects on the glossy lake and we plug in the orange lights in our small A-frame cabin. And I know that it’s worth the drive.

If You’re Going...

Pokegama Lake

Nautical enthusiasts share the lake with walleye, northern and rock bass. There are two public launches on the southeast shore off of Highway 169 and two on the northwest side off Highway 2 and County Road 63.

Zorbaz

Any lake-goer knows Zorbaz is a must-stop at least once during the summer. Boat up to the restaurant on Pokegama and challenge your neighbors to a sand volleyball game (anyone remember that scene from Cheaper By The Dozen 2?). zorbaz.com

The Pickled Loon Saloon

The parking lot (and boat docking area) is constantly packed at this local hangout. With everything from Asian lettuce wraps to nachos and Wisconsin cheese curds, this is a crowd-pleaser and favorite spot for local weekenders and transplants. If you’re a pickle-lover, get the Fried Ale Battered Loon Pickles. thepickledloonsaloon.com

Northwoods Candy Company

Small-town sweets shop, Northwoods Candy Company provides candy, cupcakes and ice cream in the middle of downtown Grand Rapids. (The reviews are bizarrely underrated. But, weary travelers beware: This is not Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, just a small candy shop trying to satiate your sweet tooth.) northwoodscandycompany.net

Rapids Brewing Co.

A rotating tap list of in-house brews that range from classic to experimental, plus pizza, snacks and shareables in a decked-out industrial setting with white walls, string lights, and a huge wood-fired oven tiled with the Rapids Brewing moniker. What’s not to love about this former-theater turned downtown watering hole on Pokegama Avenue North? rapidsbrewingco.com

Brewed Awakenings Coffee

At this coffee shop on the corner of NE Fourth Street/Highway 2 and First Avenue NE, the coffee is surprisingly delicious and the baked goods resemble the treasures grandmas offer on arrival. brewedawakeningsmn.com

First Avenue NW (off of NW Fourth Street/Highway 2)

This small strip is lined with local shops and ample parking. Among them, Brier Clothing and Shoes, and The Lake + Co. Shop provide cabin attire. Across the street, the stone schoolhouse has been converted into a shopping mall of sorts, with local vendors of everything from glassware to wooden signs. In the summer, a fresh produce stand sets up across from Jack’s Auto Service Center on the corner of NW Fourth Street/Highway 2 and Third Avenue NW.

North Country National Scenic Trail

Currently at 2,000 miles, the interstate trail will be 4,600 miles when complete and will traverse North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Vermont and New York. The Minnesota section of the hiking trail goes through the Chippewa National Forest, Istasca State Park, Paul Bunyan State Forest, the town of Walker near Leech Lake, and Grand Rapids. The trail beyond Grand Rapids is currently under development, so many hikers use the similar Mesabi Trail. This section of the trail is most popular for local day-trip hiking and section hiking (a multiple-day hiking trip of 10 to 20 miles). Hiking the entire 2,000-mile North Country trail, although less common, is growing in popularity. Could this be due to a pair of famous red-laced hiking shoes thrown over the edge of the Pacific Crest Trail in northern California by a former Minnesota resident? northcountrytrail.org

Outpost Bar and Grill

In the dime-sized downtown of Deer River, the Outpost Bar and Grill offers classic bar eats on the main drag. The giant neon cactus outside brings a little desert flare to the Northwoods. whiteoakinnandsuites.com/dining

Gosh Dam Place

Cabin weekends could use a little red sauce and cheese. Pizza is their specialty, but they also serve soups, burgers, barbeque and brunch. If you catch something you’d like to enjoy for dinner, Gosh Dam Place will cook your catch. This bar/resto is also a motel for anyone who might want to stay near Lake Winnie. goshdamplace.com

Lake Winnibigoshish

Resident walleye, northern, large and smallmouth bass, and various pan fish populate this often-misspelled lake. Between Grand Rapids and Deer River, it’s one of the largest in Minnesota’s 10,000. lakewinnie.net

Sand Lake

The 4,328-acre lake is home to walleye, northern, bluegill, crappie and various bass. This serene lake is part of the Bowstring chain of lakes (Bowstring, Sand, Little Sand, and Rice) and is strangely empty given its clear waters, resorts and excellent fishing. The walleye slot is 17 to 26 inches, and the Sand Lake Property Owners Association advocates catch-and-release, but I must admit the 15-inchers make for a great Shore Lunch meal.

Island View Resort

On the northeast side of Sand Lake, Island View Resort has been hosting weary hikers and skiers for more than 60 years. Many water toys are available for rent and the sandy beach presents ample opportunity to tan–or burn if you’re a fair, Norwegian type. islandview-resort.com

Edgewater Resort

Tom and Lori Bosiger have owned and operated this small resort on the east side of Sand Lake since 1995. One- and two-bedroom cabins are available for rent, or a larger seven-bedroom option, The Lodge, is ideal for large families and groups. The resort has horseshoes and volleyball courts, a sand beach and hiking trails accessible from the property. edgewaterresortmn.com

SandHaven Resort

SandHaven is the resort of our childhood: water trampolines, an arcade, outdoor games like Tetherball and Bean Bags (Corn Hole for the die-hards), and all watercrafts are free to use for guests. This resort is in the boot of Sand Lake, a calm, dead-end channel in the southeast corner. It is also near the Cutfoot Sioux burial grounds, of which the ranger station provides walking tours. sandhavenresort.com

Sand Lake Lodge

This resort is switching hands after more than 50 years of operation on Sand Lake’s south shore. But don’t worry, Wayne and Shelley Gerlitz are simply retiring and passing the resort to their son, Brent Gerlitz and his family. The 17-acre resort has five lakefront cabins that exude authentic woodsiness. Think log walls, porch swings, picnic tables and plaid pillows, plus, classic land and water resort activities. sandlakelodge.com

Timberwolf Inn

This hotel in Marcell, near Johnson Lake, looks like a large cabin. With 12 rooms, a classy dining room and a patio area surrounded by forest and crowned with string lights, the Timberwolf Inn is ideal for a nicer family dinner or a retreat for those of us who don’t like roughing it in cabins and tents. timberwolfinn.com

The Lost Forty

The 144-acre ancient forest offers a marked hiking trail through some of the oldest trees in the area, saved by a mistaken map on an 1882 Public Land Survey. fs.usda.gov/main/chippewa

The Joyce Estate

This 4,500-acre estate in the Chippewa National Forest can be accessed via a three-mile hike from the Trout Lake Tract off County Road 335. David Joyce, whose family’s wealth came partially from the local Itasca Lumber Company, built the estate between 1917 and 1935. The Joyce Estate is about an hour southeast of Max, the town closest to Sand Lake’s west side, and about 50 minutes from Sand Lake Township on the east side of the lake. fs.usda.gov/main/chippewa