
Photography by Caitlin Abrams
Downtown St. Paul
Ours truly is a tale of two cities. Where downtown Minneapolis is sleek and modern, St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota , is cobblestone streets and majestic cathedrals. The pace is slower, but the city is rich with culture: museums, theaters, sports venues, and a couple of the prettiest urban parks that are the envy of Minneapolis (though west siders would never admit it). What downtown St. Paul lacks in shopping, it makes up for with restaurants that are worth the drive— perfect before a show at the Ordway, or after a day at the Science Museum.
Restaurants
Amsterdam Bar & Hall
Good ol' St. Paul's favorite haunt for great live music, an expertly curated Belgian beer list, and little Dutch sandwiches known as broodjes. Check out the Sunday brunch hash bar. 6 W. 6th St., St. Paul, 612-285-3112, amsterdambarandhall.com

Barrio
Barrio
A darkly hip bar with irreverent décor and beautiful people, tequila and mezcal dominate the drinks list, while the food menu is stacked with finely crafted Mexican bar nosh: small plates, bigger dishes, plus tacos and enchiladas under $7. 235 E. 6th St., St. Paul, 651-222-3250, barriotequila.com
Black Dog Café
This friendly all-day café, with wide windows to the city, lures you with fresh and easy scratch cooking, local beers, and craft cocktails, plus live music that leans toward jazz and blues. 308 E. Prince St., St. Paul, 651-228-9274, blackdogstpaul.com
Black Sheep Pizza
Black Sheep's coal-fired oven stands apart from the pizza herd. Coal's dry, clean, and even heat produces beautiful crusts, and there's magic in the variety of fresh, robust toppings. The meatball-ricotta is top notch and salads are fresh and changing every day. 512 N. Robert St., St. Paul, 651-227-4337, blacksheeppizza.com
The Bulldog
This upscale sports haunts features flat-screens, a big list of Belgian beers on tap, supremely satisfying and tasty burgers, plus high-quality hot dogs and snacks. 237 E. 6th St., St. Paul, 651-221-0750, thebulldoglowertown.com
Burger Moe’s
For a great price, Moe's delivers big, interesting burgers, Summit beer-battered onion rings, 20 kinds of shakes, and more than 40 beers on tap. The patio is one of West 7th's best summer spots. 242 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-222-3100, burgermoes.com

Cupcakes at Buttered Tin
The Buttered Tin
The neighborhood's daily gathering space is this charming bakery café that serves hearty breakfasts and lunches, while tempting eaters with spectacular sweets. 237 E. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-224-2300, thebutteredtin.com
Café Astoria
One of the new breed of coffee cafes, this bright and open charmer serves great coffee alongside crepes and breakfast bowls. 180 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-340-9471

Gelato at Cossetta
Cosetta
An institution since 1920, our local version of Eataly is proudly loud, rollicking, and homey in an Italian-American way. It serves up some mean red-sauce standards from the pizzeria/cafeteria, fresh breads from the bakery, sweet treats and gelato at the pasticceria, and big cocktails at the full-service rooftop dining room named Louis. 211 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-222-3476, cossettas.com
Dark Horse Bar & Eatery
Global influences raise the food game at this stylishly turned haunt. Irish mussels, Turkish fig balls, and Indian curried rice bowls all work well to feed the hungry drinker, who happily pulls from a giant list of whiskies. 250 E. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-313-7960, darkhorsebarandeatery.com
Forepaugh’s
This Victorian grande dame has a seasonal New American menu focused on lighter and bolder recipes. The kitchen's not afraid to push the envelope just because the dining room is historic. The roofdeck patio is lovely, and the bar area offers a casual pub menu. 276 S. Exchange St., St. Paul, 651-224-5606, forepaughs.com

Barbecue at Handsome Hog
Handsome Hog
The bourbon is cold and the brisket is warm at chef Justin Sutherland’s homage to the South. From grits to pimento cheese, Frito pie to the best muffuletta in town, it’s hard to leave here without adjusting your belt. 203 E. 6th St., St. Paul, 651-340-7710, handsomehog.com
Herbie’s on the Park
Inspired by Herb Brooks and with a lot of old school St. Paul swag, Herbie's offers up steaks, lobster rolls, and crab cakes in a dining room flanked with a roaring fireplace and marble bar. 317 Washington St., St. Paul, 651-726-1700, herbiesonthepark.com
Kelly’s Depot Bar & Grill
A good old no-frills St. Paul bar with a stellar bloody mary, a juicy bar burger, and fat onions rings to be eaten while watching some sportsball on a screen above your head. 241 E. Kellogg Blvd., St. Paul, 651-298-0099, kellysdepot.com
The Liffey Irish Pub
Kieran's sister pub on the east side of the river features traditional Irish fare, plus typical pub burgers and sandwiches. The rooftop patio is typically soaked with Guinness and Jameson revelers. 175 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-556-1420, theliffey.com
Mancini’s Char House & Lounge
The Rat Pack would have holed up at Mancini’s, where the high-backed booths are red leather, the diners are welcomed with relish trays, and the drinks are straightforward and strong. There may be better steaks in town, but not better steak houses where you can still cut a rug to a live band. 531 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-224-7345, mancinis.com
Market House Collaborative
In the historic warehouse space across from the Farmers' Market, Market House contains many foodist thrills. Octo Fishbar is the casual seafood restaurant from James Bear Award-winning chef Tim McKee. Salty Tart has opened her first fully fledged bakery café in the corner. Almanac Fish Market and Peterson Craft Meats sell both to the public and to the eateries, making this a fully collaborative food hall experience. Coming in 2018, Birch’s Brewery. 289 E. 5th St., St Paul, 651-202-3415

Meritage
Meritage
St. Paul's best French brasserie, located in the historic Hamm Building, is a real charmer. Chef-owner Russell Klein and his wife, Desta, capture the feel and the flavors of an urbane French dining experience. From escargots and foie gras to the the duck press, you'll feel like you're in Paris. Don't forget to try a fresh absinthe cocktail in the oyster bar. 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-222-5670, meritage-stpaul.com
Mickey’s Diner
Iconic and unchanged basically since it parked in the 1940s. Do not expect futzy foodist fare here, just solid and gut-warming eggs, cakes, bakes, and links in a dining car that’s open 24 hours/365 days. 36 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-222-5633, mickeysdiningcar.com
New Bohemia and Seventh Street Truck Park
In one of the rare new buildings on the block, New Bohemia has mastered the art of sausage and beer in a counter-service setting. The craft beer list is long and far-reaching, the sausages unique, and the pretzels as big as your head. Through an attached door you can amble into the Truck Park where you walk up to various themed-trucks and order road food treats, like ribs and pizza, to bring back to communal tables. There’s a central bar and the garage door walls that open up to street-side bar seating. 222 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 612-331-4929, newbohemiausa.com; 214 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-340-8431, truckparkusa.com

Tacos at Pajarito
Pajarito
Pajarito Mexican eatery opened with a mad version of queso fundido riddled with green chorizo. Check out the tacos, and you will want to get to know the chilaquiles personally, but also trip in for the pina colada/screwdriver mashup—it's your staycation, you deserve it. 605 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-340-9545, pajaritostp.com
Pazzaluna Urban Italian
This upscale Italian trattoria has a buzzy after-work scene. Sit at the kitchen bar or chef's table to experience Calabrian mussels, handmade gnocchi, or trout with a horseradish crust. 360 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-223-7000, pazzaluna.com
PUBLIC Kitchen + Bar
A gorgeous eatery overlooking Mears Park, the kitchen sends out modern plates of accessible fare upstairs, while you'll find stylish, loungy cocktails in the basement. 229 E. 6th St., St. Paul, 651-348-6456, publickitchenstpaul.com

Saint Dinette burger
Saint Dinette
A compact, just-above-street-level spot sits kitty-corner to the St. Paul Farmers' Market and serves fresh bistro dishes from classically trained chef Adam Eaton. Cocktails are beautiful, dishes are friendly and expertly executed, and the burger is heaven sent. 261 E. 5th St., St. Paul, 651-800-1415, saintdinette.com
St. Paul Grill
There's no denying the appeal of downtown St. Paul's clubby home for power lunches, decadent brunches, and winning pre-theater dinners. The food is classic American, the simpler the better. It's the place to be seen if you're a Capitol mover and shaker. 350 Market St., St. Paul, 651-224-7455, stpaulgrill.com

Cocktails at Vieux Carre
Vieux Carré
The Artists' Quarter has been cleaned up and refreshed as this New Orleans–inspired jazz joint. Creole food matched with stepped-up cocktails make this spot a St. Paul destination (and not just because the kitchen is open late). 408 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-291-2715, vieux-carre.com
Shops
Heimie’s Haberdashery
An authentic throwback to a time when a man wasn't dressed unless he was wearing a three-piece suit. Classic and custom suiting at a wide range of price points, plus a deep assortment of accessories. Rounding out this gentlemen's experience: cigars and a barber shop. 400 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-224-2354, heimies.com
SubText Books
Sue Zumberge has built a community for her downtown St. Paul indie shop by talking to customers. She’s always quick with a book recommendation, or you can go on a “blind date” with a book wrapped in brown paper, topped with a note hinting at the book’s contents. 6 W. 5th St., St. Paul, 651-493-2791, subtextbooks.com
Things to Do
AZ Gallery
On the eastern edge of downtown St. Paul is Lowertown, an urban artists village filled with lofts and studios. And this artists’ cooperative in the Northern Warehouse is a hub of creativity, featuring one of the largest concentrations of work by Midwestern artists, as well as a gift shop filled with jewelry, pottery, glass, textiles, cards, and more from local makers. Open Thursday-Sunday. 308 Prince St., St. Paul, 651-224-3757, theazgallery.org

CHS Field
CHS Field
Minor league baseball got a major upgrade when the St. Paul Saints moved to this sleek Lowertown ballpark in 2015. The field incorporates elements of the neighborhood’s historic architecture: blackened steel and timber. With views of downtown St. Paul, and multiple indoor and outdoor meeting spaces, the venue is also used for weddings, concerts, and private events. Even if you’re just walking by, be sure to take in the 28 sculptural pillars at the Broadway entrance, which were inspired by the Upper Mississippi’s shape and the 28 river locks between St. Anthony Falls and St. Louis, Missouri. 360 Broadway, St. Paul, 651-644-3517, chsfield.com
George Latimer Central Library
Before you even open a book, you’ll get a history lesson at the central library. Built in 1917 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the building was designed in the Italian Renaissance Revival style and features round arched windows, Palladian style entrances, and classical columns. On the third floor, stop by the F. Scott Fitzgerald Reading Alcove—named for the beloved 20th century writer, who was born in St. Paul. 90 W. 4th St., St. Paul, 651-266-7000, sppl.org
Landmark Center
Landmark Center, an historic landmark just off Rice Park in downtown St. Paul, serves as a cultural center for music, dance, theater, exhibitions, public forums, and hosts countless special events. 75 W. 5th St., St. Paul, 651-292-3225, landmarkcenter.org

Photo courtesy of Lowertown Blues Festival
Lowertown Blues Festival
Mears Park
Located in the heart of St. Paul’s Lowertown district, the park is a great place to take in the city or enjoy lunch by the season flower gardens and stream that runs diagonally through the park. The covered band shell is used for many concerts, events, and festivals throughout the year. 221 E. 5th St., St. Paul, 651-266-6400, stpaul.gov/facilities/mears-park
Minnesota Children’s Museum
A hands-on place for young kids to learn and play. The recently expanded museum features a four-story vertical play area where kids can climb, bounce, and slide. (Be sure to bring socks.) Exhibits focus on engineering, imagination, crafts, and much more, with a play area for tots as well. Work up an appetite? Have lunch at the museum café. 10 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-225-6000, mcm.org
Minnesota History Center
An interactive museum with permanent and rotating exhibits that tell the story of the state, the history center hosts concerts, lectures, family days, and special events. The building is also home to the Minnesota Historical Society library and archive—a research destination for students, family historians, and academics. 345 W. Kellogg Blvd., St. Paul, 651-259-3000, minnesotahistorycenter.org
Minnesota State Capitol
Take a guided tour of Minnesota’s state capitol, which features the second-largest self-supported marble dome in the world, as well as decorative art, murals, and paintings dating back to the building’s 1905 origin. Free 45-minute guided tours are available on weekdays. 75 Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., St. Paul, 651-296-2881, mnhs.org
Ordway Center for the Performing Arts
One of the leading U.S. non-for-profit performing art centers, Ordway presents some of the finest in American musical theater, dance, and vocal arts. 345 Washington St., St. Paul, 651-224-4222, ordway.org
Rice Park
Home to the St. Paul Winter Carnival and the Flint Hill International Children’s Festival in the summer, the park—bordered by the Ordway, Landmark Center, the St. Paul Hotel, and the Central library— is a hub of downtown activity, and a great place to grab a hot dog off a cart or take photos with Peanuts sculptures. 109 W. 4th St., St. Paul, visitsaintpaul.com

Photo by Richard Fleischman
Science Museum of Minnesota
Science Museum of Minnesota
Science Museum of Minnesota
A world-class museum devoted to sparking interest in science learning through wonder, play, hands-on exploration, and experimentation. Great for all ages. Situated on the banks of the Mississippi, the museum offers spectacular views of the city and river. There’s an Omni theater, a restaurant and café, and an Explore Store filled with science kits, geodes, jewelry, and more. 120 W. Kellogg Blvd., 651-221-9444, smm.org
St. Paul Farmers’ Market
Sample the best of Minnesota-grown produce in season every Saturday morning. One of the largest and oldest farmers’ markets in town, you’ll also find locally grown flowers and locally made foods and products. The winter market includes Christmas trees and wreaths. 290 E. 5th St., St. Paul, stpaulfarmersmarket.com
Union Depot
Downtown St. Paul’s transit hub is also landmark, built near the river in 1881 and rebuilt in neoclassical style after a fire, in 1913. Today, it is also an event center that plays hosts to everything from pop-up markets and yoga classes to fashion shows and weddings. Take in the 10 works of public art or enjoy lunch at the picnic area while watching the trains and planes go by. 214 E. 4th St., St. Paul, 651-202-2700, uniondepot.org
Xcel Energy Center
Home to the Minnesota Wild hockey team, this multi-purpose arena hosts some of the biggest acts to come to town. 199 W. Kellogg Blvd., St. Paul, 651-265-4800, xcelenergycenter.com