Photo by Andrey Dmitriev/Alamy Stock Photo
Canoes on the river at sunset
Among all of Minnesota and Wisconsin’s age-old border battles on football and beer and what spirit the base of an old-fashioned should be, one fact our eastern sister state touts the loudest is that there are more lakes in Sconnie than Minny. It’s hard to believe—Minnesota, known for its lakes, boasts 11,842—but Wisconsin is indeed home to some 15,000.
Nowhere does that feel truer than near Hayward, Wisconsin, where the small-town populations just two and a half hours northeast of the Cities explode during the summers with cabin owners, anglers, mountain bikers, and anyone looking to escape to Sawyer County’s 500-plus shimmering lakes for a spell.
For those who manage to leave the pontoons and rods behind and wander into civilization, the quaint downtown is filled with nostalgic simplicity akin to other lakeside towns—but with its own spin. Visitors and locals annually flock to West’s Hayward Dairy, a Hayward landmark for 70 years, to choose from 40 flavors of homemade ice cream—then chase it with fudge and taffy from Tremblay’s Sweet Shop. When you shop on Main Street, you could go home with a new fat bike (Riverbrook Bike and Ski), a traditional krumkake press (Nordic Northwoods), patchouli incense (JC Moon), antique blue mercury vases (America’s Heritage Antiques), and a bottle of locally made mead (Out of the Woods Winery), all from within the same few blocks. A day could—and should—end with live music and drinks at the multiroom log cabin that is the Sawmill Saloon in nearby Seeley or with tales of the fish that got away at the Moccasin Bar, where one of the world’s record muskies—along with dozens of other taxidermy critters—adorns the wall.
But magical as the languid lake days of summer can be, don’t sleep on the winter scene. The American Birkebeiner, one of the world’s largest cross-country ski races, winds through the Northwoods, culminating with a grand finale right on Hayward’s Main Street, every February. It’s a spectacle to watch the town abuzz as some of the best skiers in the world cross the wooden Birkie Bridge after 50 kilometers. If you miss the race, strap on a pair of skis (you can rent them locally) and take on portions of the Birkie Trail, which stays groomed for prime skiing all season. Or find one of those thousands of lakes and pay attention to the area at its calmest, when almost everyone else heads back to the city. Listen to the ice pop and the hardy winter birds chirp. Let the icy lake-effect wind sting your face—you’re a northerner; you’re used to it anyway. And let the silence refuel you before you come back home.
If You're Going
The Brick House Café
Head north on Highway 63 until you bump into Cable, then grab a patio seat on the porch of this historic family-run spot. Get the espresso BBQ pulled pork sandwich or the eggs Benny. thebrickhousecafe.net
Shrine to Anglers
You can’t visit Hayward without climbing the town’s own Statue of Liberty: the four-and-a-half-story-tall fiberglass muskie at the Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame. freshwater-fishing.org
Spider Lake Lodge
One of the coziest resorts in the area, Spider Lake offers themed suites and cabins—plus a game room, a sauna, a beach, kayaks and canoes (or snowshoes), and sunset campfires. spiderlakelodge.com
New Moon Ski and Bike Shop
No matter the season, this shop on the outskirts of town will help you gear up for outdoor adventures (including ski and bike rentals). newmoonski.com
The Ideal Market
We could spend all day in this Cable building, which is home to multiple local businesses, including Redbery Books, where you’ll find both best sellers and books about the area, and Rivers Eatery, home to the best wood-fired pizza in the Northwoods. theidealmarket.com
