Photos courtesy of Sarah Elbert
River in William O'Brien State Park
Friday, July 21, 2017, 3:00 pm: Expedition base camp (the Elbert home, Bloomington)
“Where’s the tent?” I yell upstairs to my husband. I’m pretty certain he won’t know the answer, but I’m ever hopeful. We had ordered a spacious seven-person model the year before with a plan to try out camping. But we’d cancelled that weekend trip: Potty training had taken priority.
So we’d reverted back to hotels with indoor plumbing (preferably with rainfall showerheads) and lobby bars where one could procure a killer old-fashioned.
Now our 4-year-old ran around in big-boy underwear and we were ready for our first family camping adventure at William O’Brien State Park, on the banks of the St. Croix River. Sort of ready.
“I don’t know!” Matt yells back. “The garage? Basement?” That narrows it down to . . . anywhere.
Next up: Find the sleeping mats I had ordered from REI. Find our sleeping bags. Wait, we don’t all have sleeping bags. Maybe bring a quilt for the big people? Dig out the lantern and check the batteries (dead).
How much would it cost to rent a furnished cabin?
Saturday, July 22, 2:00 pm: Expedition vehicle (the Elbert Chevrolet Traverse)
“Come on you guys, this Brains On! podcast about mosquitoes and their smell neurons is super interesting!” I call to the backseat. My 4-year-old son and 10-year-old daughter appear unconvinced. “Pleeeeaaase can’t I watch PAW Patrol?” Finn pleads.
“Fine.” I turn off the podcast and rev up the DVD as my daughter plays Minecraft on her iPad.
Camping at William O'Brien State Park
Saturday, July 22, 4:00 pm: Campsite No. 1, William O’Brien State Park
We’ve checked in and found our way to our drive-in spot. Matt and I start to unpack the SUV, laying out a tarp and the tent on the hard, packed dirt. Our site, right on the corner by the entrance, is surrounded mostly by forest. Two young families from St. Paul have set up camp in the neighboring site. A little boy peeks from behind a tree and my son runs off in pursuit.
Luckily, the tent isn’t that hard to erect because we’ve practiced several times in our backyard. Or rather, it doesn’t look that hard as Matt puts it up. We move most of our stuff into the tent and our daughter, Madeleine, immediately claims the privacy sectionfor herself.
“Can I have some Oreos?” she asks.
“Do you want to wait and save them for a bit?” I ask.
“No, not really,” she says.
We put on our bathing suits and head over to Lake Alice beach, which is crowded, with water that’s cloudy and very lake-ish. But it’s a hot, beautiful summer afternoon and we take advantage of the giant wood chairs that park officials have placed in the shallow water along the shore.
My husband swats his leg. “Ugh, I’m getting devoured.”
Camping at William O'Brien State Park
Saturday, July 22, 5:30 pm: Campsite No. 1, William O’Brien State Park
As Matt whittles sticks for s’mores and the kids play in the malarial woods, I prepare dinner: campsite shrimp boil. Before we left, I’d bagged raw shrimp, red potatoes, corn on the cob, and chicken sausage and parked the mix in the cooler. Now I just need to add some seasoning and transfer everything into individual tinfoil packets. I consider opening a beer and pouring it into a plastic cup. Is liquor allowed at the campsite? Better question: Do I care if it’s allowed?
We eat around the picnic table and congratulate ourselves on being a camping family. As Matt cleans up, I take the kids down to the river. They look for the most precarious rock ledge possible and them clamber down to explore. It’s a peaceful summer evening and the bugs have momentarily decided to let us enjoy it. We sit on our fourth rock ledge, looking out over the water and the kayakers in the distance.
When we return to our homestead, the camp neighbors are playing catch with a football. We sit around the fire telling ghost stories. My son unwinds one that involves “Dark Vader” and a talking shark.
“Do we get s’mores now?” Finn asks. Of course we do.
Sunday, July 23, the middle of the night: a musty tent
Why did I drink those three beers? (I mean, beverages.) Where’s the headlamp I’d placed near my pillow for ease of use? I quietly make my way to the entrance and fight with the two zippers.
On the road to the restrooms—and that phrase isn’t a pleasant one—my beam of light falls on a raccoon that scurries under our car.
I’ve never needed to dodge a raccoon at a Westin.
Sunday, July 23, two hours later in a night that will not end: Private Hell No. 1
It is now freezing in our tent. Why didn’t I pack a quilt after all? And is this sleeping mat still inflated? My hip aches. I have to use the bathroom again. I return to the tent and lie there until I fall asleep, and then I wake up 45 minutes later. It occurs to me that at 43, I may now be old. Card-carrying old. Complain-about-my-joints old.
The rest of my family sleeps quietly. Obliviously.
Sunday, July 23, 10:30 am: the Elbert Chevrolet Traverse
Elbert family at William O'Brien State Park
We start the morning with an energetic two-mile hike along the river. Then the family packs up our things—the sleeping bags, the camping chairs, the lantern with the batteries that will be dead the next time we turn it on. I smell strongly of smoke and BO and tent storage. I’m tired and achy. But we did it. We camped.
“That was fun!” Finn says.
Having planned this whole weekend to sell my children on the glorious outdoors, I’m obliged to agree. But here’s the thing: The kid is not wrong.
While you're there...
Roughing It
William O’Brien State Park lies about 12 miles north of Stillwater on the St. Croix River and features 114 drive-in camping spots (including 71 electric sites) for $15 to $23 a night, four group campsites, and four camper cabins for $55 to $70 a night. But reserve them early: William O’Brien’s proximity and accessibility make the park popular among weekend warriors. Note: Bring your own food but don’t bring your own firewood; you have to buy it there. dnr.state.mn.us
Paddling
You can rent canoes and kayaks for trips down the St. Croix or just to tool around on Lake Alice, the small lake that’s walkable from the Riverway Campground (where we pitched our tent). They run $15 for a half day or $25 for the full day, and you can rent them at the park office mid-May through October.
Eating (Without Propane)
On your way home, stop in Stillwater and treat yourself to a well-deserved brioche benedict or St. Croix burger at Chilkoot Café & Cyclery (826 S. 4th St., Stillwater, 651-342-0429, chilkootcc.com)—and maybe a new Cannondale? Or venture just a little further south for some killer pit-smoked ribs at Bayport BBQ (328 N. 5th St., Bayport, 651-955-6337, bayportbbq.com).
