The Pros and Products Shaping the Local Brow Industry

Your brows may take up only a few inches on your face–but they represent a billion-dollar industry.

by

OK, we admit it. When the Zoom conference call gets a little long-winded, some of us get a little focused on our brows. It’s not surprising given all eyes are on beauty’s current fixation: eyebrows. Today’s brow believers prioritize their waxes, tints, threads, and plucks like some do their monthly manicures. And thanks to the influx of Instagram and YouTube tutorials; myriad brow services; and a broad assortment of fillers and gels, our arches are no longer just a thing to maintain. They’ve become a global, billion-dollar industry.

With brows on the brain, we tapped Angela Lutz—esthetician and owner of facial spa Angela Lutz Aesthetics and creator of cult-favorite Arch Addicts brow products—to answer some burning questions.

Why is brow upkeep so important?

Brows make a huge difference in how we look. They frame your face, accent your eyes, and balance your features. My favorite quote is by T: The New York Times Style Magazine’s Amanda Fortini: “Eyebrows are like shoes: You don’t notice them unless they are exquisitely right or disastrously wrong!” 

Will the full, natural brows that are all the rage stick around?

Both pencil-thin and bold, dark arches are out, and expertly crafted brows that embrace a natural look are in. There’s also been a spike in feathered, unkempt, “perfectly imperfect” brows. That said, not every trend looks good on everyone. Brows should be natural and classic. I always say, work with what you have!

Let’s be honest—nobody wakes up with a messy, “model off duty” set of arches. How do we achieve them?

Regular visits to an esthetician will keep things trimmed and looking natural. There are also a ton of products like pomades, powders, pencils, and brow gels that are great for achieving that photogenic, natural brow. Brow highlighters are also big at the moment and great for accentuating your brow bone.

What about laminated brows?

Another huge trend right now, lamination is a service that applies a chemical solution to straighten the brows in one direction. Tip: You can achieve the same brushed-up “wet” look (and save money!) with a clear brow gel, which holds the hairs in place.

What’s the best strategy for upkeep?

It varies, but most people need brow maintenance every three to four weeks. Brow experts work within your natural brow cycle to ensure maximum results in between appointments. I always teach clients how to use products on their own, recommend no at-home waxing, and tell them to toss their tweezers and leave their brows alone! A few hairs can make a major difference in the arch and the overall shape.

Let’s talk tinting. What color should someone’s brows be?

My general rule of thumb is to work with someone’s natural hair color as long as it flatters their complexion. Generally, blondes’ should be one to two shades darker than their hair, and brunettes’ should be one to two shades lighter. About 90 percent of my clients book a tint with their wax, which helps define brows and make them appear thicker. 

What’s best—waxing, threading, or tweezing?

This is a personal preference, but some factors indicate which service is best for someone. For example, if a client has sensitive skin or is using a medication that affects the skin—retinol, etc., etc.—threading or tweezing is the best option to avoid irritation and lifted skin. 

Is there a general rule of thumb for brow shape?

Brows should start at the center of the nostril (if they start too far in, they make your eyes look farther apart). If you draw a line from the outside of your nostril through the middle of your pupil, this is where your arch will be at its highest point. If you draw a line from the outside of your nostril to the outer corner of your eye, that is where your brow should end. We call it the “tail” of the brow. 

Factors like skin condition, hormonal changes, and even stress can cause brow thinning. Any tips?

People experiencing thinning, sparse brows should talk to their doctor. Things like hormones and lifestyle—diet, stress, lack of sleep—affect hair growth. Eat protein, drink plenty of water, and take vitamins. Brow professionals can help enhance thinning brows with tint; a soft, natural brow powder; or by introducing a growth  serum filled with vitamins, peptides, and biotin.

Master of Disguise

Ally Horarik discovered microblading, like many beauty trends, on Instagram and became immediately obsessed. She had a feeling microblading was going to blow up. So, she enrolled in a training session in Utah. Luckily, her risk paid off. Fast-forward to 2017, when Horarik, a licensed tattoo artist with more than 200 hours of blading under her belt, opened Minnesota’s first microblading studio: Highbrow. Today, Horarik specializes in different blading techniques—all forms of tattoo artistry that deposit pigment under the skin using hair-like strokes to mimic the natural shape of brows. 

Like brow shapes, microblading isn’t one size fits all. An advocate of natural, custom brows, Horarik doesn’t use stencils or patterns. “I let the client’s facial structure tell me what to do,” she says. “The brow bone is the rule maker.” On average, it takes her anywhere between two and four hours to give her clients their dream brows. At each session, she works with the client to select a shade that best suits their coloring and hand-sketches a shape to follow during the microblading. And yes, there is numbing cream. But according to Horarik, her clients say that even at the most painful parts, it feels like an annoying scratch.

While the complete service, which includes one initial session and an eight-week touchup, comes with a hefty price tag ($600), clients see results for up to three years depending on skin type. Bonus: Once it’s done, there’s no follow-up tinting, waxing, or threading necessary.

525 Central Ave. NE, Mpls., highbrowstudiomn.com

Picks From the Pros 

Brow pomade ($21), highlighter ($21), and micro pencil ($26), all by Arch Addicts, archaddicts.com

neuBROW growth serum ($100), by Skin Research Laboratories, from Haus Salon, haussalon.com

Clear Brow Gel ($22), by Anastasia Beverly Hills, from Nordstrom, nordstrom.com