Photograph by Caitlin Abrams
Stephanie March's Instant Pot
Stephanie’s very own Bowie Instant Pot.
By nature, I am not a gadget girl. I do not buy garlic choppers; I buy better knives. I often preach that all you really need in the kitchen is a trusty sauté pan, some sturdy tongs, and butter. But I have to admit, I am smitten with the Instant Pot.
And I am not alone. If you haven’t heard of the Instant Pot, you must be trapped under a pile of takeout boxes. The Instant Pot is a six- or eight-quart stainless steel multi-use electric pressure cooker. The outside presents a utilitarian control panel, gleaming exterior cladding, and latch-down black lid. Inside, a 1,000-watt heating element applies heat up to 400 degrees, at pressures of approximately 10 psi. There is a cultish following for this machine, and I have joined the believers.
Now, up here in the North, we who know the value of a good braise have been longtime fans of slow cookers. And the Crock-Pot has earned its perch on plenty of potluck tables. But I have never seen the fervor and the passion for a gadget like I have seen for the IP (and, to a lesser degree, similar products from brands like Cuisinart and Breville). More than 215,000 pots sold on Amazon Prime Day in 2016. The official Instant Pot Facebook group numbers close to 800,000 members, and our local version (Weekly Dish Instant Potters, run by, ahem, me) is nearing 1,000 as I type. What’s the deal?
Though pressure cookers are nothing new, the Instant Pot, launched in 2010, outdoes them in versatility and ease of use. The breakthrough technology is a magical new microprocessor that allows the device to perform five functions within one container. It can slow cook, pressure cook, sauté, steam, warm, and generally take the place of your other gadgets. Also, since it’s a quiet and temperature-regulated electric pressure cooker, you don’t need to worry about it blowing up your kitchen. (Stove-top pressures suffer a reputation for being loud and scary, with explosive tendencies.)
But beyond all that, I suspect this machine fulfills deeper desires for the home cooks of our time. It’s techno-friendly (the IP even comes in a Bluetooth model that you can program and operate from your smartphone; you can even write recipe scripts that will upload directly to the machine). It’s fast and reliable, with a set-it-and-forget-it mentality. Punch in your time and setting, and let the pot do its thing. Rice cooks perfectly every time in three minutes; a five-pound pork shoulder can be pulled after 90 minutes.
And it’s social. Not only does opting-in to the Instant Pot give you access to a group of like-minded social media cooks. But you can personally brand your IP with a decal (available on Etsy) that lets people know how you roll. Yes, mine is Bowie.The IP is perhaps the best icon for IC: identity cooking.
Another thing that makes this pot a winner is its near-universal appeal. While crocking gives off the scent of minivans and soccer moms, IP counts plenty of foodists and pros among its admirers. The paleo set loves it for easy bone broth, without stinking up the house. Green cooks (and cheapskates) like the idea of using 70 percent less energy in their tiny homes. Bakers can make cakes in summer without turning the whole house into an oven. And yes, we foodist soccer moms can get risotto on the table in 15 minutes without stirring.
I haven’t given away my Le Creuset Dutch ovens, nor will I stop making risotto on the stove when I have the time. But after having given my adult children Instant Pots, we all cook better food during the week, when we otherwise might have ordered pizza. Call the Instant Pot a fad if you want to. But it’s a fad I’ll be indulging—over a nine-minute chocolate lava cake.
