Photos by Caitlin Abrams
Justin Sutherland and Thomas Boemer
Justin Sutherland (left) and Thomas Boemer at Handsome Hog.
Topic: Is the smoke ring (a thin band of pink near the edge of smoked meats) the most important achievement?
Thomas Boemer: No, it definitely isn’t the smoke ring. Because one can be faked. In competition barbecue, a smoke ring is no longer a gradient of the quality of barbecue.
Justin Sutherland: People put dyes in their rub, and it leaches down into the meat. It can be a sham.
TB: But you can read a lot by a real smoke ring; you can learn to understand what temperature your smoke was at, what temperature your meat was at.
JS: If the meat is cold or the room is cold, those will both have a different impact on your smoking, changing the intensity.
Topic: Is bark (the outer crust on smoked meats) the bigger achievement?
JS: Bark is way more important, and fat content. Trimming a brisket for the right amount of fat, and keeping it moist without being extra fatty, that’s super important.
TB: And that fat soaks in. Some rubs have sugar that caramelizes, some are simple salt, but it all comes together with the smoke to create this crust. I couldn’t agree more that bark is the definition of really good barbecue.
JS: And you have to monitor it. You have to know when to pull it once you’ve achieved that art. You don’t want it to caramelize any further. Some people will pull it and wrap it so that it can still tenderize without over-barking.
TB: Most competition barbecue is under-barked, in my opinion. They’re not looking for the black beautiful bark that I like to see in brisket; they’re going for that mahogany look, which means it’s very underdeveloped.
JS: That’s because it’s based on the Kansas City model of barbecue, where they use a lot more wet mops and they’re constantly spraying down with vinegar water to prevent bark. That’s why those competition ribs are glossy, with a shine to it, and for me that’s underdone.
TB: It’s mainly because they have to convey beauty and flavorings in one bite that’s being judged, but that’s not what you want if you’re sitting down to an actual meal of smoked meat.
Topic: What are the BBQ lessons to be learned?
JS: Slow down. Let the time, temperature, and meat do what it’s supposed to do. People rush it when they want to get dinner on the table, and they don’t let it break down. Real barbecue is a process, and it’s a natural process that you can’t speed up.
TB: For most amateurs, their first-time barbecue will be really tough, like they didn’t cook it long enough.
JS: Nobody ever cooks it long enough the first time. It’s hard to wrap your head around something that is going to take 8-12 hours to cook. They think they’ll just turn it up and that it will get done quicker.
TB: And when you cook it too high, you lose moisture, and then it becomes dry.
JS: Too hot, and the good fat melts away immediately and the rest of it just burns.
TB: Start with pork shoulder, that’s a good bet.
JS: Yeah, pork shoulder, then ribs, then brisket. Don’t start with brisket; it’s too expensive to mess up.
People dining on a patio
Field Trip
Just because you don't have an actual backyard doesn't mean you can't enjoy a life filled with breezes and grillables. These local restaurant patios deliver all the vibes, along with wood-fired and smoked menu items—and a stiff drink.
- Maverick’s, in Champlin, uses Minnesota hardwoods to fire its grill. Tuck into a grilled hamburger, chicken sandwich, or hunk of salmon to see how to master those flames. Take notes on the grill marks as you sip your craft beer.
- Northbound Smokehouse and Brewpub (pictured above) has a great patio near Nokomis for you to experience how far the smoke game can go: Smoked Iron Range porketta, a Cuban Reuben with smoked corned beef, even smoked beer.
- Chanhassen’s Tequila Butcher may start you with smoked meats by the pound, or smoky ancho chili–rubbed short ribs, but all that should be followed by the liquid expression of ashes and flame: mezcal and tequila.
