Photograph by Caitlin Abrams
The pressed duck dinner special at Meritage.
The pressed duck dinner special at Meritage.
Well, 2016 was a surprising year (and I’m not just talking about the election). On the restaurant scene, I never would have predicted the rise of crudo. And kale either became part of the mainstream or jumped the shark, depending on your dietary proclivities. This year promises to be just as unpredictable, but that won’t stop me from reading the tea leaves in my cup. Freshly picked, here are a few things that 2017 will bring to our tables.
Small Spaces, Big Asian Flavors
One of my favorite new trends is the small-but-focused Asian restaurant—a stark contrast to the oversized buffets that cater to every whim. I still love a good buffet, including the spread at King’s in Fridley, but I’m glad for the scaled down, more intentional approach—even if it means waiting for a table.
PinKU set the tone with 32 seats and a menu of Asian dumplings, rolls, and noodle dishes. And now we have Tori Ramen at Victoria and Selby in St. Paul. The small room seats maybe 25 people, including the bar, where you stop to place your order before sitting (be patient if it’s busy—it’s worth the wait!). Instead of the more traditional pork, Tori uses chicken, duck, and pheasant in its ramen. The bowls are gorgeously packed with ingredients and suffer nothing for flavor. The Bali Bali! (tantanmen) bowl is rich and redolent with bold tahini and subtle chili flavors that add balance rather than taking over the dish.
Then there’s the new Dumpling in Longfellow. This tiny shop is calling itself a next-gen Asian restaurant with a small menu of maybe 15 items that delves into many Asian cuisines: pork and veg dumplings (natch), sweet and sour shrimp, fried chicken bao buns, ramen, even beef stroganoff with a little eastern flair. With only 44 seats, and dumplings that are crisp, firm, and plump, there have been crowds since the opening night. I love its remix of the banh mi sandwich, with pulled pork and vibrant pickled veg on a soft baguette.
What the trend boils down to is that small spots can offer opportunities for creativity if the support is there. If you’re willing to wait for something good and thoughtful, you will be rewarded. Haven’t you had a million forgettable dumplings?
More French
Though we lost Vincent last year, we seem to be reviving our interest in Gallic plates. We gained St. Genevieve’s casual approach to a buvette, a French food–driven tavern, and we’re about to add Gavin Kaysen’s ode to a French bistro in Wayzata. Meritage, meanwhile, is planning on dialing up the classics, such as pressed duck done tableside, offered this month as a special dinner option.
Vegan Takes Its Shot
Vegans have successfully moved away from the “joyless, kale-fueled scold” stereotype thanks in part to forward-thinkers such as The Herbivorous Butcher kids, who specialize in “meat-free meat.” And now we have Reverie Café and Bar over on Eat Street, and the coming J. Selby’s in St. Paul—both of which promise an all plant–based menu focused on taste and flavor.
Mocktails All Around
People want to be healthy without giving up on the good times. This year, you’ll see more bar menus in conjunction with Sober September and Dry January, offering mocktail and low-proof drinks, like those found at Café Alma.
