Photo by Caitlin Abrams
Sparkling wines
I’ve been hearing the wine term pét-nat a lot this fall, tossed around by local somms. It got me wondering: First, what the hell is it? Second, would it drink well with turkey and cranberries?
The elevator pitch? Pét-nat, or pétillant naturel, wines are sparkling wines that finish their first fermentation in the bottle. Traditional Champagne, by contrast, goes into the bottle after the first fermentation is complete. Pét-nats tend to be light and fizzy, with lower alcohol, and the ones I’ve tried taste more cider-like than other bubblies—you can get a hit of old orchard vibes or wet wood in there.
Though pét-nat has been popping up for a while on the national wine scene, its local ascent has been more recent. Pét-nat made an appearance at the Somm Slam wine competition at Monello, in downtown Minneapolis. I came across it next in the catalog of Libation Project, the St. Paul–based wine distributor. Wine drinkers may have found it at the bubbles bar Trapeze in Uptown, or visited the pét-nat class at local shop Henry & Son, just west of downtown.
I went straight to sommelier and wine consultant Jill Mott, who curated the list at Trapeze, to dig a little deeper.
Why are pét-nat wines having a moment right now?
They’re fun, casual, exciting, and usually much more affordable than a traditional/Champagne-method sparkler. With things like kimchi and sauerkraut all the rage, pét-nats fit right in. It’s one of the oldest ways sparkling wine came to be, much earlier than Champagne. And the wines can be inherently more umami-laden than other sparklers, and true to their grape origins.
What are things people should know before dipping into pét-nat wines?
They can be quite different than the Prosecco or Champagne you’re used to drinking. Most of the time they’re unfiltered and can be funky (think sauerkraut as opposed to cabbage). But they’re usually dangerously chuggable and, thankfully, taste like fermented grape juice. Most of the time we don’t taste sparkling wine and think of grapes.
Would you serve them at Thanksgiving?
Most definitely. They’re usually quite versatile with food. Some have a hint of residual sugar (think flirting with off-dry), which can make their pairing possibilities endless (sweet potatoes, spice/heat, etc.).
Jill Mott Gives Her Pét-Nat Picks
Any Frantz Saumon pét-nats - from the Loire Valley, are worthy of attention. A handful of them come into the Twin Cities, and Henry & Son has carried a few over the past year. Rosé, white, it doesn’t matter: They’re always fresh, taut, and brimming with energy.
Jill Mott
Iuvo Pét-Nat - Local chap Rueben Lange made his way to Oregon, where he produced this one-off by pressing pinot gris over already-pressed aligoté skins, and then putting it in used French oak. This resulted in one of the most honest, dry, and phenomenal pét-nats I’ve ever tasted. Only 25 cases came to Minnesota. Available at Trapeze and other wine retailers.
Brand Pét-Nat (rosé or white) - No sulphur added. So serious yet so fun! The rosé is a blend of Spätburgunder (pinot noir) and Portugieser, while the white is a blend of Weißburgunder (pinot blanc) and Sylvaner. One of Germany’s up-and-coming producers, making some of the country’s most transparent and delicious wines. At Henry & Son and in magnums at Trapeze.
Onward Pét Nat - Faith Armstrong Foster produces single-varietal/single-vineyard Malvasia in the Suisun Valley, close to Napa. She uses very little sulphur and her wines are outstanding! The wine smells fruity, but drinks dry and will hold up to all—yes,I mean all—traditional Thanksgiving fare.In bottle (or even cans) the wines are seriously drinkable. Cans and bottles available at Henry & Son.
Henry & Son, 1220 Glenwood Ave., Mpls., 612-200-9517, shophenryandson.com
Trapeze, 1602 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-827-5710, barbette.com/trapeze
