One Great Plate: Pizza Burgers at Bull's Horn
Which is the correct way to serve a pizza burger—with the toppings on top, or the cheese inside? At Bull's Horn, you can have both and be the judge.
Photo by Caitlin Abrams
Bull's Horn Pizza Burgers
After all the experimental cooking and limit-pushing meals that chef Doug Flicker has made over the years, it comes down to . . . a pizza burger?! The newly opened Bull’s Horn Food and Drink is, in essence, a dive bar—a light rehab of the old Sunrise Inn. More important, it’s a mom-and-pop shop. While Flicker works the flat-tops in the kitchen, his wife, Amy Greeley, runs food and works the room, greeting regulars, making sure the pull tabs are fresh and the beer cold.
Well, that blissful harmony doesn’t extend to the pizza burger. Generally, that type of burger is a bit of a unicorn these days, popping up here and there on specialty menus, but not really owning a place of prominence like it did on your 1980s school lunch menu. Marinara sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni. Greeley believes that the right and proper pizza burger has all these on top of the burger. For his part, Flicker believes that, despite the saucy toppings, the cheese should live inside the burger.
Who is right in the marital spat? You decide! Both exist on the menu: Whichever one tallies up the most orders wins.
