What to Eat New Year's Day

Are you looking for luck, comfort, or perspective?

by

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! YOU MADE IT!

Holy Moly, there's nothing like a fresh start. And maybe this year, you have less of a monster headache to kick it off? No? Well. The turn of the old calendar requires some ceremonial eating, whether that's a fat greasy burger and a fountain Coke to exterminate the blue meanies, or something more, shall we say, auspicious.

The tradition of Hoppin' John as a lucky dish to be eaten on New Year's Day in the South is widely known, and perhaps deserves some deeper considerations of its origins with enslaved people and how it came to be. But did you know that in Mexico and Spain, the tradition of eating 12 grapes at the stroke of midnight is supposed to bring 12 months of good times ahead? Maybe you did that "technically" when you slammed that glass of Prosecco last night. We'll count it. 

Eating a round cake is meant to signify the cycle of life, so fire up those Bundts. Many Asian cultures believe long noodles symbolize a long life, in Germany and Ireland eating cabbage will ensure cashflow, while pomegranates are eaten in Turkey to secure the promise of abundance and fertility. 

There's almost any sort of fortune you can place in your path as long as you orient your menu correctly. But maybe it's less about luck than it is about comfort for you. Coasting into the '21 on a plush cushion of cream cheese is not only smart, but recommended. And so, I give you: Pickle Dip.

I get that January 1, 2021 looks much like the day before, I might even be wearing the same sweatpants (sorry, "joggers"). But it has never really been about a shift in circumstances, as much as a shift in perspective. And there was no better push over that hump, for me, than the note I got from Yia Vang about the way he sees The New Year. And damn lucky that he did include a recipe, which you have the comfort of the weekend ahead to prepare. 

From Yia Vang, of Union Hmong Kitchen and the coming Vinai:

The New Year is a big deal for Hmong people: both something to celebrate and a time to reflect and think about the highs and lows of the last four seasons. Our New Year celebration is tied to the harvest, though, as we did not have a calendar year. 

Many of the first Hmong people who came to America — especially the people around my Dad’s age — arrived here and were asked for their date of birth, so many of them just picked January 1. There are a lot of January 1 birthdays out there in our community! In America, many learned that the first two questions you get asked at nearly every appointment you go to are: “What’s your date of birth?” and “What’s your address?“ Over time, people who had lived in refugee camps without a fixed address were able to answer: “I live at this address” and “my birthday is this date.” This became kind of a big deal, something to celebrate in itself.

This year, of course, has been intense and full of challenges for everyone and for me as someone in the food community.

We wrapped our successful Kickstarter campaign for Vinai, our first brick and mortar restaurant, just weeks before the shutdown in March and were blown away by all of the enthusiasm and support. And you know what, I still am. There has been real hardship out there, but people continue to rally for one another. For my parents, fleeing the hills of Laos, hiding in jungles with little to eat and many to feed, they had the goal of getting to Vinai, the refugee camp in Thailand, which was a beacon, a place of hope for them. From there, America became a beacon of hope for my parents and many others as they waited for an opportunity to immigrate. Now, I have a new beacon as I envision the beautiful community table we’re going to install at the restaurant. I picture people coming together, eating, laughing. That’s my beacon. That’s why my restaurant will be called Vinai. 

Until the opening, we’re going to keep making food that brings people together right now, whether you are eating alone or with whomever makes up your pod, in your home or in your driveway or back yard, sitting 6 feet away from a friend or two.

When I think of what the Hmong people, like my parents, went through just to get to this country and how hard they worked once they got here, I know I’m surrounded by examples of how to make it through hard times.

We all are. We can do this.  I know we will get to the other side.

Hilltribe Chicken with Bok Choy and Hmong Soffrito

Spatchcocked chicken seasoned with a spice mix and served on a bed of bok choy and Hmong soffritto.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

For the chicken:

2 1⁄2 - 3 lb whole chicken (spatchcocked)

2 tbsp coriander seeds

1 tbsp cumin seeds

1 tbsp Korean chili flakes

2 tbsp kosher salt

1 tbsp neutral oil

For the bok choy:

6 heads of baby bok choy, rinsed and cut into quarters

2 tbsp lemongrass, chopped

2 tbsp ginger, chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 tbsp shallot, chopped

DIRECTIONS:

  1. Heat charcoal or gas grill to medium heat.
  2. Toast all the whole spices in a medium skillet until fragrant and lightly toasted brown.
  3. Add Korean chili flakes with toasted spices in mortar and pestle or spice grinder, until coarsely ground.
  4. Rub chicken with 1 tbsp of neutral oil on both sides, then coat with two tablespoons of the dry rub. Save excess rub for your next chicken.
  5. Place in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
  6. Place on grill, skin/breast side up and cook for 8-10 minutes, then skin side down for 4-5 mins until the skin is charred and crispy. Then flip it one more time and cook until the internal temp reaches 165 degrees.
  7. Grind the Hmong soffritto ingredients in a mortar and pestle or food processor until finely chopped.
  8. Cut the baby bok choy into quarters, sauté in a hot pan with salt and pepper until wilted, then turn the heat off and stir in the Hmong soffritto.
  9. Carve chicken and serve on top of the bok choy.