Sneak Peek: Vann on Lake Minnetonka

Small and cheffy and full of fish.

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When the old Tonka BBQ in Spring Park closed, I rather assumed it would turn into another quick take-out place, poised to feed to lake-lifers a quick bite. I couldn't be more happy to be more wrong. Around the first week of August, the tiny spot will officially become Vann, a chef-driven spot that's, shall we say, fish-forward.

Eric Skaar is the local Plymouth boy who left town and ended up cooking around the country. While working in Seattle's Crush restaurant, he realized that if he was going to achieve his dream of opening his own restaurant that he should do it in his old neck of the woods, or waters... really. So he came home, working at both The Bachelor Farmer and Tilia before setting out on his own. 

"Vann" is the Norwegian word for water, and this restaurant will have a reverence for fish and seafood (though there will be other things on the menu, too. "Like duck, who doesn't love duck?"). Skaar knew he wanted to be by water in some fashion, so was looking at spots all over the metro before this one sort of fell into his sights, "We got in touch with the owners and it all just came together. It was the right place, right time, and right price."

It's totally a family affair, there are no outside investors other than family members, and for the most part, they've made up the bulk of the construction crew. If you remember anything about the old Tonka BBQ, then you know how much of a scrubbing it needed. They brought in all new kitchen equipment and re-tiled the whole place.  

They've totally rehabbed the interior and opened the space up, adding new ceilings, new floors, a healthy coating of navy blue paint on the wainscoting, and a freshly modern wallpaper that signals this is more than a nautically themed joint. Comfy chairs and thick maple tables are all new, and will all be rounds, "We don't have a square top in the place. There will be some big rounds in the corners that will flex from 6-8 for larger groups." Keep in mind, there will only be around 45 seats in the space. "We'll have great glassware and beautiful plates, good quality tableware. I wanted to put all my money in the dining room, but instead I put all my money in the plumbing, so there you go," Skaar chuckled. 

"We didn't have room for a bar, but there will be lots of wine." The food is going to be simple and refined, think Nordic with some Japanese flourishes Skaar picked up in Seattle, "it will be minimalist in presentation, but not in technique or flavor." This quick little dish of lightly cured sea bream with uni, sudachi (a Japanese citrus fruit), and ginger was a fresh bite with lots of nuance. Skaar is predominantly a vegetarian, but he loves all things aquatic, "it just opens up such a diverse world of eating, there's so much opportunity there." The restaurant will be dinner only, from W-Su nights. Because of the small space, they'll try to organize reservations around two seatings, one at 6 p.m. and one at 8 p.m. They'll also offer a limited number of tasting menu options, which will be ticketed.

What does Skaar want to achieve in this tiny nook of the Lake Minnetonka area? "I just want to be content, I'm married with two kids and I just want to find my place. I'm a guy that shoots for the stars, but my stars are a little different than others. I want to work hard for myself and my family."

Reservations open this week and the space should be open by August. They do have a dock, for parking on the vann.