shrimp rolls on plate with sauce
First of all, yes. Last week we reported that Ann Ahmed would be opening a new restaurant in the former Harriet Inn space and it would be called Spice Market. Well, there's been a name change, and the project will go forward as Khâluna.
After a number of people made comments or sent notes regarding their memories of the now-closed Spice Market restaurant by Jean-Georges Vongerichten in New York, Ahmed decided to make the change. "While we were cleared to use the name in the state of Minnesota, our intent all along was to create something new and fresh. So we decided to move away from that name," Ahmed told me. "By calling it Khâluna, which is Lao for please, it's a more personal connection for me. In the Buddhist teaching, Khâluna is about compassion, and being kind without wanting anything in return. That's how I want to operate my business and what I want to share with the community."
To further show what kind of direction she's thinking with this spot, Ahmed invited me to sit in on one of the menu tastings. Following are some of the dishes she's playing with, which means that they might not be in their final iteration, but they're a good idea of what to expect.
Salat Mak Mai
fruit salad
Basically a seasonal fruit salad, this will be familiar to the papaya salad fans. "This for me has a total resort vibe," Ahmed commented, "and when we first came to Minnesota we couldn't find papayas so we used apples. I think the apples work really well, maybe even better." This one has a clear Thai chili kick, with coconut flakes, dried fish flakes and an earthy touch of fish sauce in the dressing to balance the sweet fruit.
Sakoo Yut Sai
dumplings on shiso leaf
These steamed tapioca dumplings were a special on the Lat14 Valentine's menu. Filled with mushrooms and crunchy pistachio bits, it's a heartier vegan/gf snack. This is finger food, wrap the dumpling in the lettuce and take a bite.
Shrimp Rolls
shrimp rolls on plate with sauce
"I love wrapping the fried lumpia in rice paper with shiso leaves. It's all about the texture bite, crispy and soft at the same time."
Guay Jap with Pork Belly and Riblets
noodle and beef bowl
Ahmed called this one curled noodles for the little cylinder-shaped rice noodle curls on the side of the bowl. "I also want to bring more riblets to the menu. Why don't people love them here?" I don't know, I was all about fishing them out of the cinnamon-scented pork broth with my fingers and nibbling them. That is a multi-flavored bowl.
Naem Paa
salmon rice bowl
This one I could eat all day. Ahmed has been smoking salmon a lot, and wanted to figure out a good vehicle for it that wasn't too overwhelming. This is basically a salmon salad with tiny shreds of smoked fish interspersed with crispy rice, peanuts, snake beans, banana blossom and sprouts dressed in a light and acidic lime-fish sauce. The banana blossom on the side is for scooping, if you so choose.
Kanoom Jin Sao Nahm
coconut shrimp dish
"This is a Thai dish that's from a region really well-known for pineapple, this dish is like 150 years old." Ahmed thinks this one is also very resort feeling, and I can't disagree. Rice noodles with pineapple and shrimp, green mango and coconut cream topped with dried fish flakes. It's savory and sweet, earthy and bright, light but filling.
Beef Laksa
beef bowl
A very hearty coconut curry with lots of flavors. Ahmed described this as the sweet hard spices (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom) meeting with the heat of the Thai chilies and the savoriness of the paprika and turmeric. And that's all boosted by the briny shrimp and pickled veg. Yes, there's beef, shrimp, tofu, and egg, and peanuts in there my protein friends. That is one to keep your palate busy.
DRINKS
drink with vegetables
Truth: Director of Beverage Trish Gavin was also on site whipping up some drink pairings. She's playing with a lot of NA beverages that are full of aromatics and spices to go along with the menu. Can't show you the salted coconut lassi, because I drank that too fast. But there's also some very refreshing resort-like tonics, and low-sugar turmeric drinks, and an Old Fashioned that has been coconut butter washed. What does that mean? Well, maybe we'll save that menu for when they get closer.
On track for opening in 2021!
