Sneak Peek: Gavin Kaysen's Mara and Socca at The Four Seasons

Bringing that comfortable glam.

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June 1 is the day, finally, that Gavin Kaysen's new restaurants, Mara and Socca, open at The Four Seasons. It's been a moment. I stood in the space with Kaysen earlier this year when it was still a construction zone and he talked about the things he's learned along the way to becoming one of the top dogs in the food world. 

It feels a lot different in there now. 

As the hotel and residences loom above, the hospitality buzzes below on street level. It's already a hot corner, Hennepin and Washington, connecting the more traditional downtown to the frenetic and social North Loop. The crew has been hard at work perfecting their game during training services over the last few days. I wandered in as they were setting up for another round of dinner. 

We've all seen the renderings, but I have to tell you this place feels so much warmer and more vibrant than what those pics led me to believe. Maybe it's the golden alcoves or the emerald green pendants glowing above, or maybe it's the life given by employees as they move about the space. It has a comfortable elegance, there are a lot of soft touches that feel welcoming. The chairs alone look like you could melt in and overstay your reservation, but the bustling open kitchen beneath that massive hood and floor to ceiling wine cabinet reminds you: you are here to eat. 

Or drink. The bar area has no match in town. It's clubby and warm, without the more typical use of dark wood we see around the cities. Deep red walls play to the brass accents, a light grey banquet winds through the center of the lounge, backed by curved booths and small two-top tables. It's a windowless room, but the glow from the ceiling somehow makes it feel like a perma-golden hour. The big booth centered and facing the bar seats six, and likely will be the hot spot for this room. The bar menu offers a lamb burger, octopus a la plancha, fried baby artichokes, and a focaccia with mozzarella among other snacks. Adam Witherspoon's cocktails seem amped with spices, one drink called the Arrabbiata uses Urfa, Aleppo, and Calabrian chilies mixed with ginger, pineapple, and tequila. Even the Old Fashioned is laced with fig, hazelnut, pistachio, honey and Calvados. Those are my number one and two drink orders when I get there. 

As for the main menu? Kaysen has said that Mara (the Greek word for beautiful) will travel the Mediterranean, just as he did when living in Switzerland. He's called it a marriage of land, sea, and craft. Seafood plays an important role on this opening menu, and that's a great thing for Minneapolis fish fiends who usually find themselves at sushi and steak places to find variety (such as that brioche-crusted turbot at the top of this post.) The salt baked Branzino is such a cool way of cooking whole fish. 

But we haven't even talked about breakfast yet!

Every good hotel should have a great breakfast, yes? The opening menu keeps it easy with Belgian waffles and sorghum pancakes among the sweet side options, and eggs Benedict alongside a signature omelet boosted with Boursin for the savory. Specialties tip into that Mediterranean side with Shakshuka (pic above) and a breakfast pita stuffed with scrambled eggs and Merguez sausage. 

It's true, you might find yourself more often at Socca Cafe, holding down the lobby and nestled right into the windows at the Hennepin and Washington corner. Coffee, beverages, plus grab-and-go are the move, but keep your eye on the pastry game. Baklava croissant, pistachio and orange shortbread, double chocolate & sesame cookie are all options for a sugar fix. This spot is mainly aimed at returning downtown office workers, as it will be closed during the weekend. 

I'm sure you heard that the reservations went bonkers last week. They had some technical difficulties and were forced to relaunch the whole system, causing some people to lose their lottery ticket for the first round. All I can say is, I truly get the excitement, but I think this place will be around for a long time. And, if it tracks like the other Kaysen spots in town, it will only get better and better as the team seasons and time goes on.   

Mpls.St.Paul Daily Edit

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