Doors at Centro in Northeast
It's been a long time coming, but Centro will open at the end of this week. The fast-casual taco shop will be the first phase, with the finer-dining Mexican restaurant called Popol Vuh opening later. When it was first announced, the restaurant was coming from a complex collaboration of people, mostly rooted with Lyn 65. Over the time it has taken to get the place open, the ownership structures have evolved and Centro/Popol Vuh are wholly their own entity. Jami Olson is leading the service team, while chef Jose Alarcon is running the kitchen.
Chef Jose Alarcon at Centro
Chef Jose Alarcon with Frida
Considering how much time and effort have gone into morphing this old warehouse into two very cool restaurant spaces, it seems smart to open the taco shop first and get some butts in chairs. Plus, people at the nearby Indeed Brewing taproom have been hungry for tacos for far too long.
Mural outside Centro in Northeast
One of the murals outside.
Murals on the outside of the building were just being finished when I popped by, but there will be two rabbits, which is a bit of a theme for the spot. Centro comprises the left/south side of the building, Popul Vuh is still under construction on the right/north side.
Centro dining room
The room is anchored by the bar.
Inside, Centro is fresh and bright, with rich pastels and quirky design elements. It's not about Mexican-themed tchotchkes, that's for sure. It really relies on pops of color and great light from all sides.
Seating at Centro Tacos
The woodworking is not only gorgeous, but has a guest focus. Those stools just lovingly cup your butt. And the tower tables are meant to keep things in order. Keep your pitcher of margs on the upper level, plates and food in the middle, and stow your phone and keys on the lower deck.
The counter
You order at the counter, above which float yellow doors and lights that are original to the building, before finding your seat. Eventually there will be paletas (Mexican ice pops) in the glass case. If you order take-out, you can report to a separate window just off of the parking lot to grab your goods.
The bar
Or you can order straight from the bar. The bottle racks on top of the bar are cased with old window frames the team sourced from selvage shops. Olson has also collected a number of vintage colored glasses and pitchers. There is wine and beer (including a cool collaboration with Indeed), plus lots of cocktails. Pitchers of margarita run $32, there are plenty of drinks on tap, including a slushy Guava Goddess with mezcal for $10. It's a fun drinks menu—there's a barrel-aged tequila negroni I want to get my hands on, and a White Dagger made with coconut yogurt by which I am intrigued.
Tacos at Centro in Northeast
mmmmm tacos
Eventually there will be a raw bar sitting on the end of the bar, where you'll be able to get ceviche, aguachile, and oysters. But really, it's the tacos you want, right? The menu carries around eight versions, stacked with richly braised meats from carnitas to cachetes (braised beef cheek) to lamb barbacoa and chicken tinga. There's also a nopales vegetarian version with cured cactus. You'll find a few side dishes like chips and salsa, guac, and those frijoles borrachos above. Those black beans with chorizo, topped with cotija cheese and thin slices of radish created a craving I will go back for.
Embroidered mural at Centro / Popol Vuh in Northeast
The back bar has this handmade cross-stitch done by a pair of very talented Hmong women. Go check it out when Centro opens its doors for lunch and dinner on Friday, June 29.
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