Photograph by Caitlin Abrams
Thomas Boemer of In Bloom
I still remember the day that they first told me about In Bloom. Thomas Boemer and Nick Rancone and I were standing in the old Corner Table space, years ago, when they started talking about building a live fire restaurant, with an open hearth you could walk into. They danced back and forth, volleying descriptions of what it would be, how the smoke would pull you in, how there'd be a massive table in plain sight where all the work was done. How nobody was doing anything like it. I couldn't quite grasp it at the time, but I felt the fire.
When I walked into the space in the Keg & Case for the first time, I immediately got it. I remembered all they had said, and I thought: this is truly something special. It could have been all iron sooty and clad with rough wood, but instead there was graceful stone, lilting colors, a softness that was a surprising balance to fire.
But now it's over. In Bloom is permanently closed.
Of course they had their ups and downs, as figuring out how to be a fine dining live fire restaurant in a brand new food hall on the edge of town might take a longer curve than others. But I remember hearing that in the first part of this year, things were really looking up. Then COVID hit, and let's be honest, takeout wasn't really an option.
It was a big risk, this restaurant. But I still think it was one worth taking. And of the kind we aren't likely to see for a very, very long time. If ever again.
The released statement:
Today, In Bloom in the Keg & Case Market will officially close.
We are so proud of what we have accomplished over the past ~2 years. We’ve received incredible acknowledgements from our community, partners, guests, including James Beard nominations and the Star Tribune’s award for ‘Restaurant of the Year’ in 2019.
As the decline in fine dining continues in the restaurant industry as a whole, our vision for In Bloom has run its course. We are grateful to the Keg & Case team, our fellow merchants in the market and the entire West 7th, St. Paul community for the opportunity. Our Revival Smoked Meats stall will stay so we can continue to have a connection with the Keg & Case Market and West 7th community. We hope to see everyone at the patio soon!
P.S. - We have more exciting announcements to come! So stay tuned.
Of course the duo's other Revival restaurants, in Kingfield and Cathedral Hill, remain open as well.
No official word on what will happen to the giant hearth kitchen, but there are plenty of rumors already floating around. Stay tuned.
