One Year in the Weeds

As we mark the anniversary of chaos in the restaurant industry, what have we learned?

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It's been a weird week. And it's only Wednesday. But in no way, shape, or form is it as incomprehensibly weird of a week as it was last year on this date. 

Today marks the one year anniversary of the formal order of shutdown for bars and restaurants, to stem the tide of the pandemic. It's been messing with my head, because I know I need to say something, to write something. But what. Honestly, I'm not feeling like I should run through what we were all feeling that week, we all went through it together. And: we're still in it. 

I've written more words about the restaurant industry in the last year than I think I want to count. I tried to give a voice to the pain and frustration and fears, from both the industry and the eaters. It's odd to go back and see the panic in my words, but also the hope. When I read the blogs of that week and the weeks after, I feel that tightness in my chest all over again. 

If you've never worked in the industry, maybe you don't know what it means to be "in the weeds". It's a particular feeling that you are swamped, overwhelmed, and trying like hell to catch up and do your job as best as you can. Usually you find yourself in the weeds because of a critical situation: you've been triple-sat, the expo line printer is down, two kegs have blown at the same time when there's a bar full of thirsty empty glasses. The magic dance happens when you're in the weeds and you put your head down and get out of it .... Kids, it feels like we might be close. But the industry has spent a year in the weeds and that should not go unmarked. By any of us.

So as I've clearly fittered away all my words, here are the good words from the people in the magic dance, behind the bars, in the kitchens, holding down the offices and the dish pits in turns. I asked them for their words:

What is a thing you learned this year? What do you see for the industry in the coming year?

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Andrew Zimmern, Co-creator of the Independent Restaurant Coalition

More of a confirmation, and a higher degree of understanding, of a stunning duality within our industry. On one hand we saw just how brittle and in some ways how broken our industry has been for years. We celebrated ourselves too much, took on the mantle of public approval as THE cultural totem a little too eagerly pre-covid, all while we had been perpetuating so many inequalities for years, propped up failed business models, and so on … and on the other hand was there an industry other than first responders and some other front-liners who did more for so many than the restaurant industry? We pivoted and re-pivoted a dozen times, put up with all the back and forth on seating regulations, fed the country, volunteered, gave away food, supported our communities and volunteered in record numbers. I have never been more proud to be in this business, side by side with the best people on earth, food people are exemplars of humanity… from pickers and packers to cooks and growers. My hope, is simple. Let’s take real advantage of what we learned and elevate our industry. If we do that, the golden age of restaurants lies ahead of us and not in the rear view mirror.

Janene Holig, Exec Chef & COO, Hot Indian Foods/Revolver Ribs

I learned that nothing is certain and everything is fleeting, be ok with making fluid decisions. That the importance of our industry isn't only to please palates but to create jobs, train skills, and support our team and communities. I learned of my value to my family and friends outside of being an entertainer. How to think bolder, broader and stand taller in my truth while still listening and learning.

What do I see for the industry in the next year? If only I could answer that for us all. What I'd like to see is the greater public accepting increased prices in dining to reflect fair pay and the quality ingredients that support sustainable agriculture. What I think we will see is a welcomed surge in safe dining, job growth, and hospitality leadership that value the happiness and life balance of all their team members.

Erik Eastman, Director of Sales for Minnesota Ice and Beverage Consultant

The importance of relationships. The last year really solidified for me how relationships shape so much of our daily lives, personally and professionally, both the good ones and the not so good ones. I think a lot of us have moved away from the not so good ones either consciously or subconsciously in the last year, creating more space to further develop the good ones, and to allow new relationships to take shape. And that's a good thing! I've had so many conversations in the last year with folks in our industry that have inspired me to think differently, cook differently, create differently, and maybe most importantly, to trust that whatever is happening, it's for a reason, and even if you don't understand the reason ... there are opportunities to be found in every situation. I love that perspective, and it gives me a ton of optimism going forward. Plus, we get to have Pip's cocktails again?! Are you kidding me? Let's GO 2021!!!

Kara Smith, Bartender

This past year has taught me the importance of balance. For the majority of my long stint in this industry I was convinced that working long shifts one after another was the only way to be considered a valuable asset. I’ve learned that I can be just as fulfilled and successful with my craft working 25 hours a week as I was at 60 hours a week, and that my own well being should always come first. Hope to see your face in person soon!

Mike Brown, Chef/Co-Owner of Travail, Pig Ate My Pizza

I learned a LOT about takeout last year. And how to open a market and how to throw a socially distanced party in a parking lot. Really, what it all comes down to, is that even in the worst of times, there is always a way out. When I think about how we're going forward, it's still going to be one step at a time. When you are forced to slow down, forced to see it all go away, you inch back. And there's a benefit to that, because we got to see things really clearly, maybe for the first time. We realized how to be more productive, and more fully connected. But I am interested to see how people will come back, how we'll find people who want to work in this industry again, because they may have gone off and found more rewarding lives. We need to bring something more to the table.

Gavin Kaysen, Chef/Founder of Soigné Hospitality

Such a loaded question because I am still learning. But I have learned that it is okay to fail, it is okay to try, it is okay to show vulnerability even to the public eye. I have learned that giving up is not a thing, but not trying is. I have learned that nobody needs to have the answers, we need to keep moving in the same direction to find the solutions. I learned that this community is strong, supportive and thoughtful ... I have become closer to my colleagues, not as my competitors—we have found silver linings throughout the year, but more than anything we found a quiet room to confide in one another and rely on one another. As I said, I am still learning.

Jon Wipfli, Chef/Owner of Animales BBQ

I learned more than I ever have in a year's time about running restaurants last year. The big lessons were about being able and willing to pivot on a dime and being thankful for having that ability. It was like opening a brand new restaurant multiple times over in 2020. If something doesn't work or the goal posts get moved, we have learned how to adjust in a day's time. Next, I'd say, would be the importance of listening to your team especially during troubled waters. We were all in the same boat and if the team wasn't well-aligned we could have sunk pretty damn quick. I'd also say we (as in the team, my wife and me personally) found out how resilient we truly are. Bouncing back from punches became the norm and we managed it every time. I also learned a lot about how to be more empathetic and communicative with customers, how to provide a better service for them (generally speaking, I'm not batting 100% there) and how our food provided people some sort of comfort in the middle of chaos. There's a shit-ton more but those are some good bullet points.

And we learned the customer isn't always right. It's okay to stick to your gut for what's right and not bow down to everyone who has an opinion about your business, and we found a lot of people do. Some good intentioned commentary, some trolling commentary, and some people just love to sit on their high horse. We let a lot of noise just blow over us last year. 

Anne Spaeth, Owner of The Lynhall

We learned of the crucial role restaurants play in our communities. For centuries, restaurants have been the place where people gather to be nourished through food and conversation. Having that privilege taken away over night was devastating just from the human connection perspective. 

We learned first hand the number of jobs we provide (we laid off 56 people) along with the revenue we provide to the tax base. When our business evaporated so did the jobs and it reverberated to our suppliers and throughout the city and state. But the restaurant community is resilient and committed to continuing to serve our community. 

What is the future of the industry? Our industry, like many, has forever been changed by the events of the last year. Racial justice, how we show up as businesses and leaders in our communities are just a few ways. The bar has risen for all of us. We will not return to “normal”. The new normal must incorporate all of the teachings over the last year or restaurants will not thrive.

Nick Rancone, Owner of Revival 

So what I see for the next year is the call for equity in what has been an inequitable system. A call for more team oriented thinking, focused on income disparity. Finally you will see strong voices stepping forward to stop undervaluing both product and people, and I think we'll see it on a huge scale across the country. 

Tim Niver, Owner/Server Saint Dinette, Mucci's and Trattoria Mucci

Last year helped me learn how to define what I want this year and beyond. I was forced to consider my life outside of my business and recalibrated my desired outcomes both personally and professionally. 

Next year I see the continued hustle to be proactively creative and to use the lessons learned to stay malleable amongst change and adversity. Ride the wave! 

Ann Ahmed, Chef/Owner of Lat14, Lemongrass Thai, and (coming soon) Khaluna

One of the biggest things that I learned last year was that when you were busy it was easy to assume that you were operating at peak efficiency, but you really were NOT.  This last year has forced us to operate with a smaller team, and we all surprised ourselves how efficient we were with a smaller team, we became better at communicating with one another.  We learned how to use the term “we,” more than “me,” we quickly learned how to multi-task, and cross training our staff became the norm.  No-one person is ever hired to just do the one thing.  

The pandemic shed light on areas that were overlooked, it gave us the opportunity to make corrections and improve our company standards and systems of operations in house and with our guests.  Such as at Lat14, we never did takeout, because we didn’t believe we were capable, but now takeout will always be a part of the service we provide. Most importantly I learned that the team that I have consists of humble, focused and incredibly resilient individuals.   

I really think that our industry is going to boom next year, I believe many restaurants are very much like mine, where we learned how to operate more efficiently and we have become fearless and creative, we are always striving to do better. I also believe that new talent will emerge with new creative food and fun new experiences for the guest. 

Sameh Wadi, Chef/Owner of World Street Kitchen, Milkjam Creamery, Grand Catch

I learned patience. The way that our industry was hit with so many different blows and constant ebbs and flows in business and in restrictions, it made me want to stop and think about long term plays rather than short reactions. Between all the different closures and restrictions, the outbreaks, the weather, and civil unrest, we had to be far more flexible than we’ve ever been. I couldn’t get through all of that if I didn’t take a deep breath and slow it down a little bit and practice a little more patience. 

I think the industry is going to go into a very interesting direction, sort of polar opposites. I think some restaurants will want to get rid of service altogether while others will focus on ghost kitchens, and some will want to go back to the basics and back to hospitality. For me, it’s hard to imagine hospitality going back to the same way it was before. I don’t think that’s necessarily a bad thing because it opens the door for a new era of restaurants.

Jami Olson, Co-owner of Viv!r and Centro

I’ve learned the importance of putting one foot in front of the other and what it really means to take it one day at a time. I’ve learned that even in the face of unknown and impossibly grim circumstances, you just keep moving. I’ve learned how much comfort and unity you can find in knowing everybody is in it together. I’ve learned to laugh and roll my eyes while repeating “ there’s nothing left to lose”, knowing full well there’s so much more to lose. I’ve learned you can’t please everybody, and that’s just fine. I’ve learned, next level, what it means to have a solid foundation made up of resilient and passionate people who support each other and can make the best of a really shitty situation.  Most importantly I’ve learned how to fully feel what “fortunate” means.

I see the industry stronger than ever in the next year. I see the industry changed, but for the better. I base this purely on the age old concept (cue Cinderella) “Don’t know what you got till it’s gone”. One of our beloved managers, Pete, shared a story with me from a previous place of employment where the owner removed one of the most popular menu items and guests literally lost their minds. When Pete asked his employer why he would do such a thing, the owner’s response was “Sometimes you have to take things away so you can give them back”. Sure enough, several months later, the item gloriously returned to the menu and the crowds went absolutely wild. Restaurants are coming back to full swing and I’m guessing the crowds are going to lose their minds. From employer, to employee, to guest, the appreciation for our industry, post pandemic, will not be lost.

Jen Lueck, Owner of Strategy Factory (PR for industry clients like PotLuck, The Lexington, Smack Shack and Birch's on the Lake)

So many lessons were learned from the last year but the most important and valuable lesson for me was confirming and affirming my deep and profound love for the restaurant industry. No matter the struggle or challenges, restaurants and those who work within, are my people and I’m honored to help them during this incredibly challenging time. This was the time to be creative, to be nimble, and react quickly to the many hurdles put in front of us. I am confident my team and I did that. We helped when we could, became a resource when needed, and a shoulder to cry on when times were tough. 

What I predict for the industry is more fast-casual dining and more experience-driven concepts. Prior to Covid, the industry was already experiencing a labor shortage and I believe it will be worse post-Covid making fast-casual a more viable option for many. I also think many of us are craving experiences, to be transported, so we may see an increase in experience-driven concepts. Dare I say, a resurgence of Rainforest Cafe or Mystery Dinner Theater? If not, definitely more shared experience dining, family-style menus, multi-course meals, etc. 

Ben Quamm, Metro Market Manager for Surly Brewing, 20-year industry veteran

I learned to enjoy the slowdown. I've been running on E for years, thinking that if I wasn't doing everything possible I'd fall behind. At least two jobs for 15 years is exhausting. This last year taught me that my wife, my home, and my pets are the best part of my life and that is what I should focus on. As for the future, I'm going to give my optimistic answer here. I think we have shown how tied our restaurants are to our community, and how tied our communities are to our restaurants. We got to see the human side of a lot of owners and chefs, and have seen the sacrifices that staffs made to keep people fed, and sane. I see more community involvement from restaurants, and more crowdfunding for more locally-owned food & drink spaces. 

Jorge Guzman, Chef/Owner of Petite Leon/Pollo Pollo al Carbon

One thing that I learned last year, which is somewhat obvious, is that you have to keep reinventing yourself to keep people's interest. It's difficult to do and takes a ton of bandwidth. Perfect example are the boys at Travail, they f’n kill it when it comes to that. I also learned that a really good and dirty burger will pay the bills in Minneapolis, and I’m thankful for that.

For the upcoming year I still see a trend in comfort. People are ready to go out, hard. But I think that they might still be looking to be taken to their comfort zones until the trauma of this pandemic can be eased. I think a good stiff drink, a great bottle of wine and food that is tasty AF are what people want in an environment that makes them feel comfortable. I also think that as an industry, you’re going to see us putting ourselves first for once. Maybe we close two nights a week to give our selves a break or maybe we don’t break our backs to go out of the way for EVERYONE, but instead maybe our guest gets a better understanding of us. And show up for us and not just themselves. We are still in the hospitality industry and we are still in the game of wanting happy people, but not at the expense of our staff's well-being and overall health. It's a give-and-take and I see our guests starting to understand this more. Which will make the dining experience even more special.

Anthony Polski, Owner of Market BBQ

The thing that I learned most is that everything I thought I was doing is now different. We are no longer in the same business we were a year ago at all, everything has changed and we are changing with it. It is exciting and scary, but it has forced me to make changes I had only daydreamed about in the past. So I look at this as an opportunity. We have stuck to a takeout/delivery only model the entire time out of precaution for our employees and customers. We are extremely appreciative of the support that we have received and it has been a humbling experience.

Mike DeCamp, Exec Chef of Jester Concepts

I think that the biggest thing that I learned was about the importance of community. Lots of times restaurants work together at events, charity events and collaborative dinners, but we never really get into the behind the scenes of each others restaurants, and we almost never ask for help or advice from other restaurant owners and chefs. I think that it’s a pride thing. This last year, I learned that hearing other people’s ideas and learning from them was incredibly important. We set up groups and got on friendly calls to be sounding boards for each other. It is one of the things that I hope never goes away.  

Tony Zaccardi, Owner/Bartender of Palmer's Bar

I, along with so many others learned to better judge when and where I spend money. I choose to support local/independent whenever possible. I also learned that our Twin Cities is a loyal and and wildly supportive community. I believe the next year will show us so much more of that. We wanted the places that mattered most to us to weather this disaster that we're coming out of. And largely, we did just that. Kindness made it happen. 

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I love that. Kindness made it happen. It's a good frame up for the weirdness to come. Now, go get that shot.