The Kenwood has turned into one of my favorite places in town for a business breakfast or lunch, because it's so good, because it's one of those restaurants where absolutely everyone can find something they want to eat, and because it's open all day (from 8 a.m. till late every day except Mondays, when they're closed). I'm slightly obsessed with the grits and egg dish that's on the brunch menu—the cheddar grits are so creamy and corny, the pork belly is so crisp, the egg so delicate, the local K-mama sauce the perfect foil. I was thinking of writing it up as one of our great dishes when it occurred to me: The huevos rancheros is just as good.
Order that, and you get a big pile of savory pork shoulder hidden under a perfectly fried egg, beautiful crisp potatoes, a lovely citrus sour cream, all kinds of bright pickled jalapeno, and creamy avocado. I know some people only like grandma-style huevos rancheros, but this stuff is delicious. Sometime in trying to figure out which of these terrific brunch dishes to highlight, I realized that Don Saunders, owner and founding chef, is hardly around the Kenwood these days, as he is doing all the busy things required to get the new 510 open in the former La Belle Vie space. (Update below.) It was then that I realized that we all need to learn the name Meg Alm, as she is the chef de cuisine and will be running The Kenwood from this point forward, and she's a terrific talent. So, Minneapolis diners, meet Meg!
Meg Alm grew up in Minneapolis, and got her start cooking at the Craftsman during the glory years when the chef was Mike Phillips—who has gone on to found our state's charcuterie gem, Red Table Meats. So, she knows her meats. Then she went on to cook at Solera under Jorge Guzman, and then Wise Acre Eatery under Beth Fisher, and spent a season as a farmer working at chef favorite River Bend Farms, so she knows her vegetables. She cooked for a while in Oregon, but returned to Minneapolis and started at the Kenwood almost four years ago. "I love the way she uses seasonal ingredients, her vibe of plating, the way she can teach green cooks—she's amazing," says Don Saunders, who means it, because he made her the chef de cuisine. Meg told me that her interests for The Kenwood are keeping consistency what it is, and adding more seasonal ingredients. For instance, she was really happy with these cannelini beans she canned last year from Footjoy Farms, and a mixed vegetable pickle, and plans to add more elements like that to the menu. Well, I can't wait—I got to try her fresh rhubarb tart and it was a beauty, not too sweet and joyfully rustic and real. I'll be back with great enthusiasm.
Meanwhile, Don Saunders tells me that the 510 Lounge and Private Dining is on track to open in July. The plan is for the old La Belle Vie bar to be open daily from 4:30 p.m. and will serve till midnight, mainly little plates to share, fresh oysters, cheese, charcuterie, and what promises to be the cities' best caviar program, served with house-made potato chips and house-made creme fraiche. Old La Belle Vie fans will see some changes, but not shocking ones (you can snoop around the 510's Instagram if you're aching with curiosity). The cocktail program will be oriented around the classics, and weddings, groom's dinners, and the like will all take place in the dining rooms towards the west.
It's good to know the Kenwood is in good hands, and I can't wait to see the new beginnings.
