Hidden Gems: Sushi Takatsu

×

Expand

Udon at Sushi Takatsu

Tori Udon at Sushi Takatsu

People! If you replace a terrible and generic skyway sushi spot with a wonderful one and don't provide me with a gold edged proclamation saying such a thing has transpired, how do you expect me to function?

Well, late to the party is better than nothing, I guess, and I'm clearly very late to the Sushi Takatsu extravaganza happening in the endlessly remodeling Baker Center. (The Baker Center: all the historic buildings between Marquette & 2nd Ave. and 7th & 8th St. which are being united into one mega-skyway plaza across the street from the IDS.) Here's how I stumbled upon this extraordinary place: I was heading to Juice So Good because I heard that chef Jessi Peine, one of the stars of dear departed Birdie and the force behind Peep's Hot Box, is making grain salads for their grab-and-go case. (Did you know Peine used to be a spa chef in Mexico? True! Did you know I have a feature on some of her other activities coming out in print? Also true! Subscribe and get the scoop first.) Anyhoo, as I was investigating these grain salads, I couldn't help but notice a line spilling out the door of the skyway sushi spot I wrote off around 2012. I joined the line. I was shocked, truly shocked to see the spot offered oshizushi, one of the more historic forms of sushi, made in a pressed mold and popular today in Osaka. You don't often see oshizushi in the Twin Cities, with the notable exception of Kyatchi, my eternal favorite. So I ordered the mackerel oshizushi, to haul back to my desk because life is glamour. Friends, it was fantastic. The mackerel was resilient and fresh, braced with vinegar, adorned with just-toasted sesame seeds, the rice was just the right temperature, and the whole thing was $5.50. I have spent so much more for so much less in these cities. 

×

Expand

Sushi Takatsu Saba Oshizushi

Mackerel Oshizushi

I went back: Again, and again, and again. The udon noodles are plump and tender, the broth has depths and intelligence, and a big bowl with a fried chicken cutlet, chicken kara-age, is $5.50. A solid half of the line any given day seems to order the special $6.95 'sushi bowl' which is basically a sort of multi-fish tataki salad of cubed fish, soy, sesame and a little chili oil with avocado and scallions served on a bed of rice, squirted with chili mayo, and made fun with tempura flakes—insiders often order 'extra fish' for two bucks, and friends, that is as good a skyway lunch as I have ever had. And it comes with a miso soup! And that miso soup is excellent. 

Sake Oshizushi at Suhsi Takatsu

Sake (salmon) Oshizushi

What gives? I sat down with owner Jun Abematsu to find out exactly why this spot is so amazing. Turns out Abematsu grew up south of Tokyo and came to the U.S. some 20 years ago, spending a decade cooking in Florida before he moved to the great north to make sushi at the landmark downtown Origami. He opened Takatsu in 2014, using his former Origami suppliers, and focusing on his favorite Osaka-style sushi. Ever since, the place has been growing in popularity every day—lately he's selling 200 sushi bowls a week. Abematsu has also started doing sushi platters, which I am dying to try, because they are a budget friendly. 

I'm obviously irritated with myself for having walked past this place and wasted years when I could have been eating so much better, so don't be like me—get to this party, skyway dwellers, it's fantastic.