petite leon
Well, the Blackbird space has a new light. Sometime in early fall, the space will become Petite León, a neighborhood restaurant from James Beard-nominated chef Jorge Guzman. He's partnered up with Ben Rients, who launched Lyn65, to form Duck Soup Hospitality along with Travis Serbus and Dan Manosack.
"Everyone expected me to start with Pollo Pollo," Guzman told me on the phone, speaking of the char-grilled chicken concept that he'd been popping up all over town. "But when I saw that space I knew it wasn't the right idea for that spot. Ben and I had been thinking about a dimly lit neighborhood concept too, and it just fit. I love places like Au Cheval and Estella, which have class and elegance, but no pretension. You feel comfortable walking in, everyone is welcome, that's what we want for this place."
Along with his first stab at ownership, Guzman thinks this is the first time the city will be able to really taste his food. "At Solera I was cooking Spanish, and at Surly it was such a broad demographic and besides that, a beer hall. Up at Brewer's Table, that was closest, but it's not a cuisine I would do again. It was like an event to eat there, and now I just want people to come in and be casual and excited to get their favorite thing. I want my kid to be able to eat there and not look at me like: what is this?" In fact, the name Petite León is a direct reference to sons. Guzman's small son Everest was born under the Leo sign, and Rients is expecting a son who will be named Leo.
"It feels like a cafe, dimly lit and comfy, but the flavors will be bold and layered. It's good eating you can take a piece of bread to." Guzman mentioned that the menu he's working on felt very California, but with a lot of Mexican on there.
There will be a cheeseburger, but they'll do it Oklahoma-style with with a double patty smash with onions. Look for grilled octopus with crispy black rice, and red chili pozole with heirloom Mexican hominy, mussels and "fixins". Guzman said he was thinking about that soup like pho, in which bowls of cilantro, tortills, onions, and such might come on the side so the guest can make it how they like. A snacky part to the menu will include olives, almonds, and pickled peppers with sauces if you're not ready to order a big meal, or larger plates, like a linguiça sausage with smoked bone broth, that are meant to share with the table.
There will be a full bar, Serbus who last worked at Meteor Bar, will be creating the beverage program. They'll start with dinner only, adding brunch later. From the start, they'll do takeout service as well. "I'm just really excited to get to know regulars, this is the first time I've owned something. I'm so glad to be in this neighborhood."
