
Photography by Caitlin Abrams
Devil Advocate's bloody mary
The bloody mary from Devil's Advocate
The story of Erik Forsberg's bar and restaurant Devil's Advocate has really been a "hurry up and wait" situation. He opened the spot in a doomed space, the historic former Hell's Kitchen space on 10th (which was also The Inn, and Subo, and wasn't it a Le Peep back in the day?). Doomed, because it was perpetually going to be redeveloped, and while plans were always being solidified (as they are), DA built a nice little following for its Philly cheesesteak and stellar craft beer selection. Sitting next to the spiffy new Target employee rec lawn didn't hurt. But every time a closing date loomed, it would get pushed back. So he remained open and working, waiting for the Dread Pirate Roberts to make that final decision. Which, alas, was made last April, when DA finally vacated the space.
Meanwhile, back in the Fireswamp, Forsberg had been working to find another location that would work as the new Devil's Advocate. He ended up buying Dan Kelly's Pub from Matty O'Reilly, with the thought that it would probably end up being the next DA. He also opened Erik the Red in the old Hubert's next to the stadium, because who needs sleep.
But while Dan Kelly's was busy being an Irish pub, a deal presented itself. His old neighbors, Target, contacted him about the former Masa space which has been sitting vacant since late 2015 when the D'Amico boys said: This construction kinda sucks, we out. Now that the mall is shiny and new, it's time to fill the bright windowed space on the corner of the Mall and 11th, and Forsberg's Devil's Advocate will do it.
"This is a really nice space, and a great chance to update DA a bit," Forsberg told me. "We're just getting into it and realizing what it can be. We'll keep the beer focus, we'll have to add some tap lines, but really expand on the food offerings. I want to bring in a wood-fired oven so that we can do some pizzas and smoked meats." They'll keep some of the elements of the old DA—yes, meatballs will factor in somehow, and the cheesesteak is a must—but Forsberg knows this location is in the Target HQ, and will have to really amp up his lunch offerings. "We are hoping to add a grab-n-go counter at the front, stocked with braised meat sandwiches, grain bowls, housemade pasta dishes, that kind of thing."
Here's the million dollar question I asked him: You going to be open for Super Bowl?
KINDA! He's waiting on city permit approval, and if all goes well Forsberg will do a Devil's Advocate pop-up preview during Super Bowl fun. He'll open the space on the Mall, serving Valentini recipe mega meatballs, lasagna, penne with meat sauce, and pizza. A little Italiano homage to DA's meatball past (it opened originally as a meatball bar). They'll also act as a site for Operation Warm, supported by the Mpls. Fire Fighters Association who will be collecting new coats for kids and selling calendars for the cause.
After the hullabaloo, the space will close down and get ready for renovation, with the target opening being springtime.