Brunch is Back at Grand Cafe

Jamie Malone has brought back the neighborhood's favorite meal.

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If there was one thing the old Grand Cafe was beloved for, it was brunch. When Jamie Malone took over the neighborhood eatery on 38th and Grand, she held off on opening for brunch until she was absolutely ready.

She's ready.

Yesterday was their second Sunday brunch as the new Grand Cafe, and as she and her crew have done at all other times of service, they set a lovely tone for the future. As one of the Best Restaurants in the #MSP50, you'd hardly be surprised, no? Take a peek at what's on offer should you grab a welcoming seat. 

Upon entering, you'll be greeted by a pastry table adorned with the goods: flaky croissants, orange-scented monkey bread, and dense coffee cake on our visit. And, obviously, bubbles.

Let's be clear, this isn't your loaded-hash-browns kinda gig. If these deviled eggs are any indication, you should get ready for a little laid-back luxe. Ours had a bit of a lobster tiara, but you can choose caviar, or just stay with a simple egg and still feel special. Brunch should have hors d' oeuvres—something to snack on while your foggy mind handles the menu—so don't sleep on that spinach salad with hot brown butter (it changes everything). Of course there is plentiful chilled shellfish, something Grand Cafe does wonderfully during dinner, too. We didn't get the chicken liver donut with pecans and glitter glaze, but assume it is about to have its Instagram moment.

For the main show, you can go big or small—full brekkie or snack time. We had both a vegetarian and gluten-free eater in our mix and we managed quite well. Avocado toast here (center, above) is amped with grated eggs, pickled onion, and fat bits of lardon: A top entry into the Toasts We Wish to Eat Every Day category. The French omelet was a textbook thin and folded beauty. Lobster spaghetti came rich with brown butter cognac sauce, and a cacio e pepe dumpling dish with slow fried egg was where we spent the rest of the toast from the table ... chasing sauce. Dying to come back for some ham and eggs cocotte, classic eggs Benedict, and steak and eggs.

And, oh yeah. That burger. Do we like the trend of the brunch burger? I'm rather in for the idea of having the lazy Sunday morning time to really enjoy it—burgers for breakfast are not anathema in my world. The fact that this one comes elevated (literally) on a pedestal (literally) makes it all the more fun. Order it double or single, it's a sophisticated take on a Big Mac. Saucy and cheesy with potential for a messy, drippy bite. Luxe.

Brunch is Sunday only, and if you don't start with a glass of cava in those gorgeous glasses, you're doing it wrong. Grand Cafe is still open for Sunday dinner, and it's just as special an evening with Cornbread Harris playing his soundtrack to your meal.

I'm just calling it: Grand Cafe wins Sunday.