Photos by Caitlin Abrams
Pork mix at Apoy
Cast iron dish: sisig (pork mix)
Remember a restaurant called Subo? Back in 2009, it opened in the downtown Minneapolis spot that once held the original Hell’s Kitchen. Subo presented the first Filipino-focused restaurant in the city, at a time that coastal food writers were declaring it a rising trend. I thought we were finally going deep into Southeast Asian eating. But, sadly, the restaurant didn’t last more than a year.
The noodle dish, pancit
The noodle dish, pancit
Now, nine years later, we’re finally getting another shot—and I’m both thrilled and encouraged. So far, diners have been packing the room at the recently opened Apoy, in Kingfield. A food-truck mural and plenty of plants enliven this tiny spot, erasing the old Anodyne coffee shop vibe. And the room felt warm and buzzing when I visited in October.
The eatery comes from three restaurant friends: Curt Rademacher, Shawn Nafstad, and Sherwin Resurreccion. Their mission: to introduce our cities to the incredible tapestry of Filipino cuisine. An archipelago just east of the South China Sea, the Philippines comprises some 140 distinct ethnic groups. It follows that this polyglot cuisine shows the influence of neighboring Japan, China, Indonesia, Malaysia, and India—along with colonial-era passers-through Spain and the United States. It’s practically the definition of East-meets-West eating: You think a bite will go in a familiar way, and then it kicks your mouth in a different direction.
Apoy is more than anodyne.
Apoy is more than anodyne.
A few Filipino dishes may already feel familiar, having floated around local menus for a while. One is lumpia: a cigar-shaped egg roll with a crepe-thin wrapping, filled with ground pork and vegetables. Easily snackable, this dish makes a great entry point. You might also recognize longaniza (a sausage similar to chorizo) and lechon kawali (fried pork belly). When I visited, Apoy served up the latter with the perfect fatty-to-crispness ratio. Looking to order something that isn’t pork? Pancit offers a noodle dish, here with shrimp and bright vegetables. It’s a lighter option that can easily be made vegetarian.
Your best results at Apoy will likely come from reaching past what you know. That’s not a huge risk, considering most of the entrées cost $15 or less. Maybe try the sisig, a snacking dish made up of pig parts. The pan hits the table with cheek, belly, and ears; a bit of chicken liver; garlic and ginger; plus soy with a touch of mayo. Addictive forkfuls to be had here. You don’t need to tell the kids that the crunchy bits are ears; they’ll never know. 4301 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-824-4719, apoympls.com
