Photo by Eliesa Johnson
Bachelor Farmer tabletop
<< See More Best Restaurants 2014
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112 Eatery
Isaac Becker's original solo effort is still the object of foodists affection, probably because it stays open late and treats a cheeseburger like royalty, and manages to make foie gras meatballs feel like a revelation every time you order them. And after all these years, it's become the kind of place it once subverted: an institution. 112 N. 3rd St., Mpls., 612-343-7696, 112eatery.com
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The Bachelor Farmer
Three years after it opened, The Bachelor Farmer is still a coveted reservation. And while the restaurant's Nordic sensibilities are still apparent on the menu, they've become less conspicuous as chef Paul Berglund settles into that easy relationship with eaters, one based on trust and consistency over flash and fad. 50 2nd Ave. N., Mpls., 612-206-3920, thebachelorfarmer.com
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Barbette
Chef Sarah Master has long been a quiet force in the restaurant industry, but lately she’s come into her own. Uptown’s go-to French eatery can always be counted on for spectacular oeufs, top-notch fries, and a few great glasses of bubbles, but lately there’s a spark to the cooking—consider the current rendition of the duck cassoulet—that has brought a freshness to the old bohemian space. 1600 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-827-5710, barbette.com
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Bar La Grassa
One might have thought that the BLG crowd would automatically migrate to Burch, Isaac Becker’s new joint in Lowry Hill. They didn’t, and for good reason. How could you leave behind this North Loop staple, the place that makes you feel warmly welcome and special? And how could you leave perfect blue marlin crudo, hearty mushroom and taleggio agnolotti, and perhaps the only really true bucatini with Bolognese in town? 800 Washington Ave. N., Mpls., 612-333-3837, barlagrassa.com
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Birchwood Cafe
Relax in the vibe of this artful, simple café. Chef Marshall Paulsen’s vibrant menu matches the welcoming scene, from the seasonal savory waffles (fresh corn-studded cornmeal beauties in August; kale, kernza, and fontina in January) to the burger or the tempeh tacos. 3311 E. 25th St., Mpls., 612-722-4474, birchwoodcafe.com
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Blue Door Pub
Burgers inspire passionate debate around these parts; Minnesotans are simply mad about their favorites. Maybe that’s why we picked BDP for this list, because it also seems simply mad about burgers. Even if you don’t normally go in for a Lucy-style burger, you’ll be tempted by BDP’s creative versions, such as its special homage to the Big Mac, in which white American cheese oozes forth under a mantle of special sauce and chopped house pickles. 1811 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 651-493-1865, thebluedoorpubmn.com
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Brasa Rotisserie
Brasa makes you wish you’d grown up with chef-owner Alex Roberts. The casual eatery is an homage to his childhood traditions and his mom’s home cooking: a warm blend of Creole, Southern, and Caribbean dishes. Sure, you can find pulled pork or braised beef all over town. But only at Brasa can you get it from a James Beard Award-winning chef who balances flawless execution and phenomenal sourcing with an intuitive sense of comfort and soul satisfaction. 600 Hennepin Ave. E., Mpls., 612-379-3030; 777 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-224-1302, brasa.us
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Borough
Borough/Parlour
In the hottest neighborhood in Minneapolis, this is the hottest spot. Upstairs at Borough, a kitchen run by multiple chefs kicks out playful and exciting plates in a space that defines rustic warehouse chic. Downstairs, Parlour is a laid-back lounge where the pros behind the bar crraft some of the best bozy-wonderful cocktails in town, and where the burger—a veritable spectacle of meat, pickles, and cheese—sets a new standard of snacking. 730 Washington Ave. N., Mpls., 612-354-3135, boroughmpls.com
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Broders' Cucina Italiana
The three Broders’ destinations deserve to be seen as a whole, committed as they all are to the same high standards of quality and authenticity. The Pasta Bar dishes up freshly made ravioli to an always waiting crowd, the Cucina stocks the best ingredients from Italy alongside unfussy meals to grab and go, and now Terzo Vino Bar provides a place to hang out over a glass of Chianti from a well-curated list, all while snacking on modern but modest plates. Longevity itself is rare in the restaurant business, but after 30 years, the Broder family has successfully passed the baton to the next generation, assuring us that they’ll be feeding us for years to come. Pasta Bar, 5000 Penn Ave. S., Mpls., 612-925-9202; Cucina, 2308 W. 50th St., Mpls., 612-925-3113; Terzo, 2221 W. 50th St., Mpls., 612-925-0330, broders.com
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Cossetta
A major renovation has allowed Cossetta to become a mini-Italian empire of the east side, a place where many (many, many) parts have finally come together to make a rather magical whole—something you truly have to see to believe. There’s the market, the bakery, the pasticceria (with its Wonka-esque supply of pastries and sweets), the cafeteria, and a full-service rooftop restaurant where the good vibes flow as freely as the wine. 211 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-222-3476, cossettas.com
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Dakota
If you don’t like to listen to live music while you eat, you might have written off the Dakota. That would be a mistake. Besides lunches that are leagues above what you’ll find in the skyway, there’s a glorious patio in the warmer months where you can sample from one of the best happy hour menus in town. Then there’s dinner in the side room, which allows the best of both worlds: a little music and your duroc pork belly and day boat scallops too. 1010 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-332-1010, dakotacooks.com
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El Burrito Mercado
It may not be fancy, but this multi-generational family-owned empire has become an icon of authentic Mexican fare in the Twin Cities. In the market, El Burrito has seemingly limitless versions of its salsa, legendary house tamales, and a house-butchered meat section that would make any charcuterie guy blush. And at the full-service restaurant in St. Paul, there’s a mean margarita to wash down your sopes, pozole verde soup, cochinito pibil, or menudo (if you dare). Midtown Global Market, Mpls., 612-227-2192; 175 Cesar Chavez St., St. Paul, 651-227-2192, elburritomercado.com
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Grand Szechuan
Grand Szechuan
The food at Grand Szechuan is some of the most authentic fare to be found in the Twin Cities, particularly when it comes to the restaurant’s extensive selection of Szechuan specialties. And while nose-to-tail cooking has become au courant in recent years, the wok stars in the kitchen at Grand Szechuan have been serving up tripe, tendon, kidney, belly, and ears for years. 10602 France Ave. S., Bloomington, 952-888-6507, grandszechuanmn.com
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Icehouse
The unassuming (for Eat Street, anyway) Icehouse has become one of the best live music and food destinations around, with a space that’s warehouse revival and a cocktail menu that’s inventive and fashionable, in a neighborhood that has upped the ante on booze. Eating here is both playful and nostalgic: The burger topped with foie gras is lush and gratifying, the buttermilk fried chicken with bacon-cornmeal waffle is a post-cocktailing dream, and the mushroom pot pie with creamy taleggio cheese is one of the best new expressions of meatless cooking around. And, oh yeah, there’s great music too. 2528 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-276-6523, icehousempls.com
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Jax Cafe
There’s something comforting about a restaurant that doesn’t change to fit trends or cater to the crowd of buzz seekers. Jax keeps it honest and old-school, from the vested barmen to the famous crab rolls and pierogi. It’s not a concept; it’s a tradition of hospitality, one designed to make you feel special in the simplest ways. 1928 University Ave. NE, Mpls., 612-789-7297, jaxcafe.com
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The Kenwood
Despite its off-the-beaten-path location, in a space that has seen more than a few tenants come and go, Don Saunders’s eatery has defied the odds to become the quintessential neighborhood restaurant. The loyal following is due in no small part to Saunders’s eggs en cocotte and brunch menu burger. At night, the room feels like a neighborhood dinner party, with people greeting each other over unexpected plates such as the hearty wild boar papardelle. 2115 W. 21st St., Mpls., 612-377-3695, thekenwoodrestaurant.com
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La Belle Vie
It’s a powerhouse at the height of its powers, the best restaurant between Chicago and the West Coast. And it’s not just because of the food, which is at once delicate, lilting, and vigorous. La Belle Vie has turned into one of those spots where the sum is much greater than the parts, and that’s due to the team, a core group that has been working together for 16 years or more. Stability and longevity are not much celebrated in restaurant culture, but it’s the combination of people working in concert at La Belle Vie that makes it such an impeccable joy. 510 Groveland Ave., Mpls., 612-874-6440, labellevie.us
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The Lynn on Bryant
When you’re looking for an under-the-radar gem, go directly here. Chef-owner Peter Ireland’s cooking is spot-on, blending a bit of whimsy with exacting French technique, even while he manages to keep the restaurant neighborhood-humble. Even so, Ireland’s most remarkable, if unexpected feat, might just be creating a gluten-free muffin that tastes like a sinister plot against anyone on a Paleo diet. 5003 Bryant Ave. S., Mpls., 612-767-7797, thelynnonbryant.com
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Mandarin Kitchen
Mandarin offers the most authentic dim sum brunch in town. While other places rely on frozen products and shortcuts, Mandarin’s carts ply eaters with fresh-from-the-kitchen clams in black bean sauce, barbecued pork buns, housemade dumplings, and a hundred other things that come from family recipes and a tradition of quality. 8766 Lyndale Ave. S., Mpls., 952-884-5356, mandarin-kitchen.com
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Manny's Steakhouse
A place with such inherent swagger seems like it would flame out, but Manny’s remains the go-to choice in town for a serious hunk of steak. The cuts are solid and cooked deftly to your preferred temp, a feat that is rarer (sorry, couldn’t resist) than one might expect. But what really sets Manny’s apart is the wise and wily staff. True professionals who are known around town by their nicknames (how can you not love guys who go by Jocko, Bags, Vinny, and Vegas?), they know when to amp up their attentiveness and when to dial it back, offering a level of service that catapults this house of hedonism to the top. 825 Marquette Ave. S., Mpls., 612-339-9900, mannyssteakhouse.com
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Marla's Caribbean Cuisine
Marla's may just be better than half the well-known white-tablecloth restaurants in town. The food is honest and well-prepared, unique and wholesome, and the entire experience envelops you in a warm embrace of hospitality. Marla wants you to be happy when you are under her roof—and with one nibble of her roti, you will be. 3761 Bloomington Ave., Mpls., 612-724-3088, marlascuisine.com
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Meritage
Desta and Russell Klein have carved out something special in the heart of downtown St. Paul, cultivating a crowd of loyalists who pack their tables nightly—some of whom even drive across the river (gasp!) to do so. Not that it’s a surprise, what with all the fresh and varied oysters in the raw bar, the winning cocktails, and the familiar yet modern French cooking, which finds a way into your heart with plates such as pot-au-feu, duck fat–poached sturgeon, and the refined-rustic cassoulet. 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-222-5670, meritage-stpaul.com
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Modern Cafe
Owner Jim Grell has never been afraid of handing over the reins to the Modern, and more than a few amazing chefs have earned their chops there. With Taelyn Lang now helming the kitchen of the Nordeast comfort food emporium, the place has a new spark, one with a predilection for subtle flavors and simpler recipes that fit Grell’s long-standing commitment to fresh and local food. 337 13th Ave. NE, Mpls., 612-378-9882, moderncafeminneapolis.com
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Ngon Vietnamese Bistro
There might not be a better place on the planet than Minnesota to score a warm and inviting bowl of pho, thanks to our many immigrant Vietnamese cooks. And going to Ngon might be the best way to prove the theory, what with its steaming bowls made from local ingredients, redolent with fresh herbs that—even amid the darkest days of winter—will remind you there is something called “summer” around these parts. The bonus of Ngon is the space, inviting and warmly lit with bright yellow walls. Coupled with a new cocktail program at the bar, the atmosphere has made getting a bowl of pho at Ngon a complete experience, a bucket-list candidate for any serious Minnesota eater. 799 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651-222-3301, ngonbistro.com
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On's Kitchen
If you need glam and glitz and actual, you know, décor, this might not be the place for you. Don’t let the humble surroundings fool you, though. From simple spring rolls loaded with pork and cilantro to authentic, hard-to-find dishes such as the fish-intestine soup Ka-Paow-Pa, the scratch cooking and attention to detail at On’s has made it home to some of the most vibrant meals in town. 1613 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651-644-1444, onskitchen.com
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Pizzeria Lola
If there truly is a pizza revolution going on in town (and there is), the rebel queen of the new world order has to be Pizzeria Lola’s Ann Kim. She’s already broken boundaries with her kimchi-laden Lady ZaZa pizza, while also managing to satisfy countless fans with standard pies like the Sweet Italian. And if you’re lucky enough to score a seat at Lola on a day when the special is Smokey the Pig (bacon, cream, cheese, and smoked onions drizzled with maple syrup), you’ll understand why living in Queen Ann’s world might not be such a bad thing. 5557 Xerxes Ave. S., Mpls., 612-424-8338, pizzerialola.com
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Sea Change
National food writers have thrown Sea Change chef de cuisine Jamie Malone all sorts of love, and for good reason. She understands the inherent beauty of seafood’s flavor, creating plates that allow the fish to be the star (without gobbing it up with too many extraneous ingredients or sauces). Nowhere is her deft touch more evident than with Sea Change’s recently launched omakase program—essentially a chef-guided meal in which Malone creates 10 courses that are geared toward the diner’s personal tastes, a palate-expanding way to experience seafood at its most elemental level. 806 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-225-6499, seachangempls.com
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Sea Salt Eatery
Despite the fact that it’s located inside a seasonal shelter in a public park, Sea Salt’s place on this list is well deserved. Why? Let us count the ways: because it brings fresh, awesome seafood into daily life; because it injects a little gulf-coast gusto—think crawfish po’boys—into our buttoned-up culture; and because, each spring, its opening is one of those things that makes the long winter a little easier to forget. We love Sea Salt for all that and more (like the fact that the owners could default to lower-grade fish to better churn and burn through the waiting masses, but they don’t). And so do all those who stand in those lines each and every warm day it’s open. 4801 Minnehaha Ave. S., Mpls., 612-721-8990, seasalteatery.wordpress.com
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Smack Shack at POTLUCK
With its hurricane cocktails, lobster boils, and a now legendary lobster roll, Smack Shack has become the rollicking fish shack we didn't even know we were missing. The North Loop hot spot threw one of the best street fests last summer, and there's no sign the party is going to stop anytime soon. 603 Washington Ave. N., Mpls., 612-259-7288, smack-shack.com
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Sushi Fix
Sushi has become such a commodity that better-than-average sushi joints can be found in strip malls across our great land (never mind the stuff you find in the supermarket). So it sometimes feels like gold when you find something a bit above the blur. Sushi Fix is that and more; the ebullient chef-owner Billy (first name only, like Cher) serves ultra-fresh fish (he gets deliveries six times a week) while curating a sake list that rivals anything within a day’s drive. 862 E. Lake St., Wayzata, 952-473-1364, sushifix.net
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Tilia
We loved Tilia when it opened three years ago. We love it even more now that it has settled into its groove. If the buzz about wait time scared you off before, now is a great time to head back to Linden Hills, where Steven Brown’s cadre of cooks has had more time to flourish under his tutelage. 2726 W. 43rd St., Mpls., 612-354-2806, tiliampls.com
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W.A. Frost
Here’s what most people think they know about Frost: nice patio (for when it’s warm outside) and cozy fireplaces (for when it’s cold). Here’s what most people don’t know: It has a great basement lounge (just like all the cool newcomers) with barrel-aged cocktails, house bitters, and an impressive offering of whiskey flights. And its menu offers unexpected dishes such as pastrami-cured salmon, Korean-barbecued wings, or braised pork cheeks. Frost is one of those tried-and-true old standards that’s probably a lot fresher than you think. 374 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 612-224-5715, wafrost.com
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World Street Kitchen
A menu full of global mashups can often be cause for concern; it usually means the owners are simply trying to jump on the latest fad. Not at World Street Kitchen, where a rock ’n’ roll ethos has led to a Middle Eastern chef putting out Bangkok burritos stuffed with curried chicken or Korean short ribs. At WSK, it seems like a no-brainer to find the Yum Yum bowl (a bit of a riff on bibimbap) alongside a stuffed falafel burger and lemongrass meatball lettuce wraps. Most amazingly: It all works, because the cooking is from-scratch, the ingredients are top quality, and the vibe is good fun. 2743 Lyndale Ave. S., Mpls., 612-424-8855, eatwsk.com
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Photo by Katherine Harris
World Street Kitchen
The food truck that became a quick-serve is by far one of the most exciting new places to eat. Globally creative food like the Bangkok burrito, the Moroccan fried chicken, and the Yum Yum bowl are all worth seeking.
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Photo by Eliesa Johnson
Marla's Caribbean Cuisine
Marla, Harry Singh's sister, is behind this intimate eatery serving Indian and Caribbean specialties, such as jerks and tandoori chicken as well as vegetarian and vegan options.
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