Gael Green celebrates forty years in the biz this year. She is one of my food-writing idols.
On November 11, 1968, she went to print and delivered "Paley's Preserve: The Ground Floor” in which she wrote it was “the perfect room to end an affair in . . . "
Here is what she says in a recent e-mail to me:
“see how we ate in 1968, see BITE right now on my site and if you want to remember -- or discover -- what it was like in the days when ex-cashiers and waiters controlled where we would sit in the haughty French restaurants that counted...click on "Vintage Articles"...read about the Colony as Forest Lawn, Cruel Table Games at La Caravelle, No cookies for you at La Grenouille...and the arrival of winter at the Four Seasons. For me it is wonderful to wallow in memories of the days when we had to go to France once a year for cusinary epiphany...and then later when everything was new and thrilling and we didn't need to be ironic.”
this site for some erudite discussion on this topic.