For years, I worked in restaurants. One year, I worked at Leslie Revsin’s One Fifth Avenue, where I was the garde manger. I had to teach the waiters to execute a tableside Caesar salad the original way it was done in Mexico and southern California eighty-plus years ago when the Caesar craze began at Los Angeles’s Brown Derby restaurant. I love this salad, and it’s even better than the emulsified-dressing version served all over town today. Use the freshest eggs in the world, and don’t serve raw ones to any kids or seniors . . . .
2 large heads romaine lettuce
3 T. minced anchovies
1 T. mustard
1 T. Worcestershire sauce, or more to taste
1/3 c. grated Reggiano parmesan . . . or even better, peeled curls of the
2 egg yolks, beaten slightly
1/2 c. olive oil or more to taste
Juice of 1 lemon, or more to taste
4 cloves garlic, minced super-fine
1/4 stick butter
4 T. minced parsley
3 c. cubed artisanal bread, roughly the size of gaming dice.
Trim and clean romaine. Cut, wash, and dry lettuce. It needs to be bone dry!
Melt the butter in a small saucepan, then add the minced parsley and half of the garlic. Toss with the bread cubes, then toast them in a 325-degree oven until nicely browned. Reserve.
Place the remaining garlic, mustard, and egg yolks in a large salad bowl. Add the lettuce and toss to coat. Add the anchovy, Worcestershire, and olive oil. Depending on the size of your heads of lettuce, you may not use all the oil. Toss well and season to taste with the lemon juice. Garnish with the cheese and croutons, then serve. Serves 4 as a large lunch salad.