Photos by Caitlin Abrams
The Lynnhurst neighborhood isn't the only one who has been patiently waiting for Steven Brown's St. Genevieve to open. We all have. After the rounding success of Tilia, the idea that we might get another South Minneapolis neighborhood restaurant that ups the ante on casual dining has had us peering in the windows for months.
St. Genevieve, or StG, opens tomorrow in the space that was once Lynn on Bryant, but there is NOTHING that will recall the former. It is a wholly different space that evokes a French neighborhood eatery with tin ceilings and gracefully curving millwork behind the bar. It's small, with about 50 seats, so I am anticipating a wait, which I will happily spend at the bar in front of the bubbles bin. (Though some rezzies will be taken! See below ...)
StG is a buvette, which is a tavern or casual eating and drinking spot. The menu, a collaboration between Brown and Executive Chef Paul Backer and Chef de Cuisine Jason Hansen (formerly of Blackbird in Chicago), celebrates bistronomy, a movement by young chefs who are throwing out the stuffiness of French cooking and opting for more imaginitive reworkings of classic dishes while embracing the democratic spirit of affordable hospitality. That is a movement to get behind, folks. Check out the full food and drink menus below.
The front room with copper clad French doors that will open to the street.
The zinc bar has a dedicated bubbles bin and the back bar is structured by curvy cream shelves.
In the rear of the room, there's a sneak of whimsy and color in the richly squiddy wallpaper.
Let's take a moment to appreciate the dedication to bubbles St. G has. The list, curated by Sommelier Brie Roland, is stacked with bottles of the sparkling stuff from all over France. Have a look at the full beverage list below.
Tartines, or open-faced sandwiches, play a big role on the menu. Above, the salmon tartine is light with radishes and fresh herbs on sturdy bread spread with uni butter, the Madame sports Red Table jambon royale and raclette cheese under a sunny side up egg.
There are also bigger plates such as this pork tenderloin with roti cheese grits, a celeriac remoulade, and onion puffs.
Not your average chicken leg, crisped skin, a touch of lardo, and a swath of mushroom velouté.
Welcome them to the neighborhood starting Tuesday, Dec. 15!
5003 Bryant Ave S., Mpls., 612-353-4843, stgmpls.com
Reservations will be taken for part of the room, but there will also be space for walk-ins. Send a note to firstname.lastname@example.org for reservations/parties/events.
Hours: M-F 11 a.m.–1 a.m., Sa-Su 9 a.m.-1 a.m.