Photo by Caitlin Abrams
A glass of champagne at St. Genevieve
Late every autumn, the lovely Steph March and I put our heads together and argue about the best restaurants that opened in the year—typically we agree on some, revisit others, make impassioned cases. We publish our final, final findings. (We run a funny calendar year at the magazine. Restaurants that open in the final days of the year, and couldn't have gotten their feet under them before the calendar clicked over, are given a grace-period and grouped into the next year.) Then, after the news hits the stands, we sit with what we wrote. Was it right?
I'm here to say that after letting the weeks unspool, I'm more convinced than ever that St. Genevieve was my best restaurant of 2016. The food is often exquisite—that little gem salad is a song rendered in sweet and bitter greens. More than the food, though, St. G (as everyone now seems to call it) is a high point in prettily attentive hospitality and sheer glamour, it's a room my heart leaps to be in.
So here's cheers to St. G. When I remember 2016, the day you threw open the big doors will always be a highlight.