Photo courtesy Doug Flicker
As is well known, the Twin Cities signature cult food is the hamburger, as served in locations historic and unassailable (Matt’s, the Nook, Lions Tap) and newfangled and celebrated (Victory 44, Haute Dish, Vincent). But now Sandcastle, the beachfront shack owned and operated by Doug Flicker, reknowned chef of Piccolo, is might be changing the game entirely with the addition of the Curdburger, and its fearless cousin, the Turdburger.
THE WHAT?! “It’s a hamburger, and we chop cheese curds into the mix,” Chef Flicker explained. “Upgrade to a 'turdburger', and it has tater tots.” Flicker and I spoke at length of regional variations on cult hamburgers and he explained that in his mind large burgers are unpleasant and bear about them an unseemly girth. Therefore, the curdburger will be a decorous four-ounce patty, cooked on a flat top so that the cheese curds chopped and distributed throughout the beef chuck within will become soft, but won't melt. (Food safety temperatures for cooking a burger are 160 degrees; cheese curds don’t entirely melt until a very high temperature, which is why they can be deep fried.) The curdburger—which is not exactly a Juicy Lucy and not exactly innocent of the association—will be served on an onion bun, with spicy mustard, pickles, and shredded lettuce. Oh, and there will be a bacon option.
The curdburger and turdburger will only be available on Mondays, as Sandcastle is making them a once-a-week thing in an effort to replicate the runaway success they’ve had with the Friday-only fried chicken. Now, about those names? “The folks cooking have to have fun,” Flicker told me. “The ones we tried yesterday were damn good. You’ll see.”
Yes, yes I will, starting on Monday, April 27.