Red Wagon Pizza Co., which started as a farmers' market dream from commerical real estate guy Pete Campbell, recently opened an actual pizza restaurant in South Minneapolis, in the former In Season spot.
With the annexing of the next door yarn shop, the space is much roomier and open, with tables and a few big-party booths. The kitchen area is directly behind the bar (decked with comfy bar stools) and all the action is right there for you to watch. A row of cool tap handles tip you off to the large beer list, populated with local craft brews (such as Wagon Party from Bauhaus, and Miraculum from Pryes) but also some great outliers, such as a tangy sour beer from Belgium that I tried.
And if you're all, "yeah I had the pizza, it's good pizza, but it's pizza" then check your sauciness, there's more than pie. They're using that big wood-fired oven to cook cast-iron skillet dishes: smallish servings of interesting and tasty playful dishes. And take further note, there's a serious cook running the kitchen. Sean Little is Chef de Cuisine, and he's done time at a lot of top spots including Tilia and Travail. You can definitely see his influence on the menu and in the kitchen.
I tried the Sausage Espagnole, which is made in-house, stuffed with golden raisins, red peppers, and Stickney Hill chevre. The link is served on braised kale with sunflower seeds, and it comes piping hot in a little cast-iron dish. That sausage was earthy and rich with all the right things happening, it just made for a bunch of perfectly warming and satisfying bites. One of the appetizers is also made in a skillet, julienned and roasted butternut squash and carrots with a bit of spice are wrapped in prosciutto and thrown into the oven with a tiny bit of maple syrup on the bottom of the pan. The results are fat fingers of pork and veg, salty and sweet, with another hit from fresno chilies on top. I want that again right now.
Other skillets include a cheesy baked pasta with gemelli that looked bubbly and thick coming out, and two more substantial skillets that could easily make a meal: braised beef cheeks and a country chicken dish inpsired by Little's Grandma.
As for pizza, you'll see the market favorites flying out the door for pick-up. But don't overlook some of the new stuff, like the Banh Mi pizza with slow-cooked pulled pork that's fresh finished (after-oven) with bright cilantro, cukes, jalapeños, and ginger-pickled carrots. I'm going back for the Detroit pizza, which Campbell grew making with his Pop-Pop, and is the inspiration for the very existence of this spot.