Photo by Caitlin Abrams
Revival St. Paul food
Open since December, Revival St. Paul is a bonanza for ’cue lovers in the #North. Chef Thomas Boemer tricked out the new location with a large smoker that can handle 20 briskets at a time. Until the original Minneapolis spot gets theirs, the Selby Avenue Revival will exist on its own bark-crusted, smoke-ringed plane. Behold, some highlights from the St. Paul spot. Praise the pig.
1. Chili Cheese Dog. The Minneapolis location came out swinging with that burger, and St. Paul did the same with its ode to this classic dog. Who else tops theirs with burnt end chili? (Why yes, that is a fried pork rind on top of your chili cheese dog.)
2. Brisket. Boemer isn’t shy about preaching the gospel of brisket. His main message? Don’t overdo it. No brisket requires 24 hours to get a righteous bark and smokiness. This one was done in eight to 12.
3. Pork Belly. If you’re sick of cheffy pork belly, try Boemer’s, which brings the cut back to its roots as a luscious celebration of fat and smoke. It’s all joy, no pretense.
4. Ribs. Butter-dipped ribs sound like they should be illegal, yet here they are at Revival. These have been rubbed, smoked, and then dipped in a hot butter and rib rub. The result is a chewy, spice-laden paradigm shift. (Don’t forget the snappy housemade pickles.)
5. Cheddar Biscuit. Simply put: You’ll never have to go to Red Lobster again.