A Trip to Titletown

Discover what makes Green Bay more than just a football town.

Downtown Green Bay skyline
Photo by Chris Rand
The downtown riverfront at night

Few Minnesotans know much about Green Bay, other than the fact that it is the home of the Vikings archrival Green Bay Packers. But if you look past football, you’ll see that Green Bay—home to roughly 100,000 people, making it the third largest city in Wisconsin—has evolved beyond its storied football past to become a relevant Midwestern metropolis.

An easy four and a half hour drive east of the Twin Cities, a weekend getaway in Green Bay is a nice alternative to your typical cabin retreat. With the Fox River running through the center of town, watersports are a viable option during the summer months, and the nicest of hotels hover at about $100 during the off-season. The straight shot on Highway 29 from I-94E (the exit just past Menomonie comes up fast, so pay attention) offers plenty of stops along the way where you can load up on Wisconsin cheese and local beer—some of which, such as the award-winning and highly coveted New Glarus, is available only once you cross the border.

Upon arrival in Titletown, you’ll quickly see why football has been at the heart of the city for decades. Located just off the highway, towering over the homes that surround it, stands Lambeau Field. The second tallest building in Green Bay, the stadium, along with the hospital and the nearby cathedral, is one of the more recognizable components of Green Bay’s so-called “skyline.” Even if you bleed purple, a trip to Green Bay wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Lambeau for a photo and a beer. Whether you choose to peruse the Packers Hall of Fame is up to you, but a New Glarus Spotted Cow at Curly’s Pub, located within the atrium of the stadium, is a must. Hold your appetite, however, because across the street from Lambeau is the locally famous Kroll’s West Restaurant. Throw caution (and your cholesterol) to the wind and order the cheese curds, a butter burger, and a chocolate malt—your taste buds will be in grease- and dairy-filled ecstasy. For a healthier option, a mere three miles east toward the river is Green Bay’s most notable organic eatery, The Urban Frog. Be sure to pick up a pack of its peanut butter energy balls for snacking during the remainder of your trip.

With the requisite football stop out of the way, the rest of your time in Green Bay should center on the company you plan to keep. If the kids are in tow, head east to get “all shook up” on Elvis Presley’s favorite rollercoaster, which was transplanted from Memphis, Tennessee, to Green Bay in 2011. Located within Bay Beach—a 1950s-era amusement park that has no parking fees, no admission fees, and rides for a mere $1—stands the Zippin Pippin, along with old-school swings, giant slides, a Tilt-a-Whirl, and a Scrambler. For a more zen retreat, hit the Botanical Garden of Green Bay or plan a walk along the 25-mile recreational Fox River Trail that runs parallel to the south-to-north-flowing river. (Impress other walkers with this local fun fact: The Fox River is one of the few rivers in the world—the Nile is another—that flows in this reverse direction.) For a closer look at the river, hop aboard the Foxy Lady Yacht, which makes daily trips down the river and has dinner and drink cruises in the evening.

If you prefer land over sea, Green Bay’s notable Titletown Brewing Company, located along the river in a restored railroad depot, is the perfect spot to stop and sample some locally crafted brew. And in true Green Bay fashion, there’s a giant Packer statue, which will soon be repainted to honor the recently retired (and Dancing with the Stars champ) Donald Driver, alongside the patio. Just across the street is another popular Green Bay brewery and restaurant, known for its hoppy IPA and fresh, multicultural approach to fine cuisine. Hinterland, the first in a growing line of restaurants to start to push the envelope in local dining, supports local farmers and offers such fare as elk meatballs, a stout barbecue-glazed pork loin, and a Wisconsin cheese and charcuterie plate—natch. The kitchen and this new caliber of food were so well received that chef Ben Raupp recently left Hinterland to open S.A.L.T., another foodie favorite, in the nearby town of De Pere. One bite of those loaded fries—complete with melted cheese curds and bacon gravy (hey, no one ever said it would be a healthy weekend!)—and you’ll wish you never had to leave.

At least until football season starts.