Restaurant Reviews

Dinner at Sun Street Breads

Beloved bakery-café by day turned winsome café at dusk, Sun Street lights up the night.

Sun Street
Come dusk, the earnest bakery that is Sun Street Breads turns fetchingly bistro. If there’s one good reason to try this Kingfield café and bakery, it’s that Sun Street doesn’t try too hard. The modest gray-toned interior and straightforward, ingenious menu are balanced to scale.

Chef Annette Colon’s approach reflects her decade at Lucia’s serving a host of familiar dishes with finesse and wit. Springy fry-bread tacos carry shreds of perfumed pork and sweet, spicy corn relish; an ethereal meat pie, toting chunks of tender beef, is the pasty of my dreams. Short ribs are braised to silky fork-cutting perfection, and the salt-roasted chicken, in a smoky bourbon sauce with savory bread pudding, black-eyed peas, and braised greens, illustrates Colon’s knack for getting the little things right. I could eat The Delta sandwich of creamy cumin-spiked sweet potatoes, tangy crisp fennel slaw, and earthy steamed kale on a soft cracked wheat roll every night of the week.

A master baker, Solveig Tofte’s toothy figgy rye, robust potato flax loaf, and tangy Kingfield sourdough are superb. The scant dessert selection—chocolate layer cake and airy lemon icebox cake—are well worth a bite. Sun Street’s beer list features Surly, Furthermore Knot Stock, and Founders Centennial IPA on tap, with house wine for $5. On average, the generous menu tops out at less than $20 for a fully loaded plate. Beloved bakery-café by day turned winsome café at dusk, Sun Street lights up the night.

Sun Street Breads, 4600 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-354-3414

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