Best New Restaurant 2013

Reinventing a Midwestern holdout is no easy task. Find it perfected in Burch Steak.

Burch Steak & Pizza Bar
Photo by Steve Henke

They made it look easy. When word first broke that a steak house was in the works from James Beard award–winning chef Isaac Becker and his front-of-the-house guru (and beautiful wife) Nancy St. Pierre, it seemed like a no-brainer. A steak house from the folks behind the undeniably tasty food and easy, friendly service at nationally lauded 112 Eatery and Bar La Grassa, in the former Burch Pharmacy space? Of course!

This being Becker, he wasn’t content to merely grill steaks; he had thought it through and taken it to its logical conclusion of connoisseurship, offering guests their choice of corn-finished, grass-fed, domestic Wagyu, or genuine Japanese Kobe. He had conquered the world of eastern European dumplings, from pierogi to schupfnudel. And in the basement, he debuted an adventurous, grown-up pizzeria— with a stellar wine list. Of course!

But in fact, there was nothing obvious or easy about it. Burch Steak reinvented that utterly midwestern institution, the steak house, transforming it into something thoroughly now—and that’s why it has been the hottest reservation in town since it opened and why it’s the best new restaurant of the year. 1933 Colfax Ave. S., Mpls., 612-843-1515, burchrestaurant.com