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First Bite: Brewer's Table at Surly Brewing
By: Stephanie March | Posted: 01/23/2009
This Fresh Forkin' Friday is full of portent. Things seem to be moving and shifting on the landscape of '09, and I'm not even talking politics. I think this year will see a lot of upheaval in the industry, some of it good, some of it tragic.
Here's my bummer of the day: Steven Brown is out of Porter & Frye. We're digging into the matter on both ends and will let you know when we find out more.
Everyone is talking about the Tim McKee takeover of Cue et. al at the Guthrie. It's exciting, and I think the potential is grand. Beth Dooley, who's been chatting the boys up, tells me that they plan a "fish forward" restaurant that will work with the Marine Stewardship Council to focus on sustainably raised species. The space will be cozied up a bit to be a little bit more intimate but will remain upscale. Naturally, they are thrilled to be so close to the Mill City Farmers Market and plan to prowl for ingredients whenever they can. I think no one will be surprised by the chef they plan to name as head of day-to-day operations, a local star to be sure.
Bradstreet Crafthouse has opened in the Graves. I have to admit I am excited about the proliferation of top-notch drinks, I believe alchemist Toby Maloney is behind many of the recipes here. The kitchen is being run by Jessie Spitzack and the menu of high-end, creative small plates was masterminded by the guy upstairs, Stephen Trojhan of Cosmos. Beyond the general seating, there's a chef's counter along the open kitchen and a private Parlour Room behind a heavy velvet curtain.
A little less flashy and a little more suburban, Martini's Graffiti Grill has opened in Golden Valley. It looks like an Italian and American blend with pizzas, pastas, burgers, and even cheese fries.
Someone just told me that Cesare's Wine Bar is now called Domacin, but although it has changed owners, it hasn't changed much else.
Stephanie March is Mpls.St.Paul Magazine’s food and dining editor. See bio
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