By Stephanie March
By Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl
By Jason DeRusha
By Parties Editors
The Morning After
By Tad Simons
Arts Off The Cuff
by Arts & Nightlife Editors
By Allison Kaplan
By Jennifer Blaise Kramer
By Mpls.St.Paul Magazine
ASID MN Showcase Home
By Edina Realty
Stephanie Wilbur Ash
By Emily Howald Sefton
By Real Brides-to-Be
The Feed: Stars
DeRusha Brunches at World Street Kitchen
By: Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl | Posted: 04/10/2013
Everywhere I go people keep asking, "How is it possible Travail could close?"
"Will it be the same? And what is up with the new locations? Sure, the coming pizza place, Pig Ate My Pizza, which will serve pizza topped with house-made pork products such as sausage and pepperoni makes intuitive sense, but they can’t really be opening a sandwich shop called The Rookery, can they?"
Okay, first, I nag. For everyone complaining that they didn’t get to try Travail, that they didn’t want to brave the lines and so missed the first incarnation: This was inevitable! Go to the restaurants you want to go to when they’re doing their great work, don’t wait for some mythical future time when life is going to be easy. People still tell me they miss: the New French Café, Auriga, D’Amico Cucina, the Stillwater incarnation of La Belle Vie, insert your favorite closed restaurant here. Restaurants are ephemeral. They define their time because they go away. End of rant.
And now, on to The Rookery! So, first off, yes there will be sandwiches at The Rookery, especially the pub fare that was popular at Travail in its early days, things such as the Italian paté melt and the organ grinder.
But more, The Rookery, Travail co-owner Mike Brown told me, will be showcasing the talents of two of its longtime teammates, namely Kale Thome and Adrian De los Rios, who will be running the thing, and about fun microplates and molecular crazy Travail-style cocktails.
“Most of the food [at The Rookery] is going to be $2 to $7 small plates,” Brown told me. “I’m envious of it, frankly. It’s so much fun to do small, tiny plates like that. We know it will probably start as the place people go when they can’t get into Travail, but we want to get to the point where people will want to go to The Rookery as its own thing, and sit down and have a bunch of small plates, and a cocktail. The cocktails will be [done similarly to] how we approach food, we’ll start with the basic cocktail, learn as much as we possibly can about all the different products, do all our own juice and syrups, of course, but then take it to the highest good level we can, maybe with liquid nitrogen, maybe there’s cedar-plank smoke trapped at the top of the glass, maybe it goes with a little duck egg chorizo dish or garnish—it just needs to be good and fun.”
Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl is a senior editor at Mpls.St.Paul Magazine.See bio
Food & dining buzz, twice a month.
Our editor's guide to 1000+
restaurant across the
Search the Guide
Like Dara on Facebook
Follow MSPMag on Pinterest
Mpls.St.Paul Magazine | mspmag.com
© 2014 MSP Communications, Inc. All rights reserved
About Us | Contact Us | Advertise With Us | Pressroom | Subscriber Services
RSS Feeds | Site Map |